Chinese cuisine 中國菜

珠油，上珠油
### 粤菜中的“珠油”与“上珠油”解析

#### **历史背景**
“珠油”（又称“珠油膏”或“上珠油”）是传统粤菜中一种特色调味品，主要流行于广东潮汕及珠江三角洲地区。其历史可追溯至明清时期，与当地酱油酿造工艺的演变密切相关。珠油最初是手工酿造的酱油衍生品，因发酵过程中产生独特的色泽和风味而得名。其名称可能源于“珠圆玉润”的质感或传统酿造容器（如陶缸）的形态联想。

随着20世纪工业化生产的普及，传统珠油因工艺复杂、成本较高逐渐被标准化生产的生抽、老抽取代。而“上珠油”可能是珠油的升级版，强调更醇厚的质地或更深的色泽，类似于现代“头抽”（第一道提取的酱油）的概念。

---

#### **制作方法**
1. **原料**：以大豆、小麦、盐为主，部分配方加入糯米或焦糖调色。
2. **发酵**：经蒸煮、制曲、天然晒露发酵数月，过程中微生物分解蛋白质生成氨基酸和糖类，形成鲜味与红褐色泽。
3. **提取**：发酵完成后压榨取汁，部分传统做法会二次熬煮浓缩，形成浓稠质地（即“上珠油”）。

与现代老抽的区别在于：珠油依赖天然发酵的色泽，而老抽需额外添加焦糖调色。

---

#### **常用菜式**
- **烧腊**：如叉烧、烧鸭，珠油用于腌制上色，赋予红亮光泽。
- **卤水**：潮汕卤鹅、卤五花肉，珠油增鲜提味。
- **焖炖**：红烧肉、焖猪手，利用其醇厚鲜味渗透食材。

---

#### **化学作用与烹饪角色**
1. **着色**：发酵生成的类黑精与糖分在高温下发生美拉德反应，形成深红色泽。
2. **提鲜**：丰富的氨基酸（如谷氨酸）增强菜肴鲜味。
3. **防腐**：高盐分与有机酸抑制微生物，延长食物保存期。

---

#### **为何珠油被老抽取代？**
1. **工业化需求**：老抽通过添加焦糖色素可快速统一色泽，适应规模化生产。
2. **成本与效率**：传统珠油需长时间发酵，成本高昂；老抽制作周期短，价格更低。
3. **风味变化**：现代菜肴偏重浓郁酱香，老抽的焦糖味更符合大众口味。
4. **认知断层**：年轻厨师对传统调味品了解减少，酱油品牌主推生抽、老抽分类，珠油逐渐被边缘化。

---

#### **现代替代与反思**
尽管珠油已少见，但部分潮汕老字号仍保留其工艺，用于传统菜式以还原古早风味。老抽虽便捷，却缺乏珠油的复合鲜味。近年来，随着“怀旧餐饮”兴起，珠油作为文化符号重新被挖掘，成为高端粤菜中体现传统匠心的元素。

**总结**：珠油的衰落折射了传统饮食文化与工业化进程的碰撞，其独特风味仍是粤菜历史的重要见证。
**Analysis of "Zhuyou" and "Shang Zhuyou" in Cantonese Cuisine**

#### **Historical Background**
"Zhuyou" (also known as "Pearl Sauce" or "Shang Zhuyou") is a traditional condiment in Cantonese cuisine, particularly popular in the Chaoshan region and the Pearl River Delta of Guangdong. Its history dates back to the Ming and Qing dynasties, closely tied to the evolution of local soy sauce brewing techniques. Originally a byproduct of handmade soy sauce fermentation, it earned its name from its unique glossy texture and rich color, possibly inspired by terms like "smooth as pearls" or the shape of traditional brewing vessels (e.g., ceramic jars).

By the 20th century, industrialization led to the decline of traditional Zhuyou due to its complex production process and high costs, replaced by standardized light and dark soy sauces. "Shang Zhuyou" (literally "superior pearl sauce") might refer to a premium version with a thicker texture or deeper color, akin to modern "first-press soy sauce."

---

#### **Production Method**
1. **Ingredients**: Primarily soybeans, wheat, and salt; some recipes include glutinous rice or caramel for coloring.
2. **Fermentation**: Steaming, koji-making, and natural sun-fermentation over months. Microorganisms break down proteins into amino acids and sugars, creating umami and a reddish-brown hue.
3. **Extraction**: The fermented mixture is pressed to extract liquid. Traditional methods may involve re-boiling to concentrate it into a thick paste (Shang Zhuyou).

Unlike modern dark soy sauce (laochou), which relies on added caramel for color, Zhuyou derives its hue naturally from fermentation.

---

#### **Signature Dishes**
- **Roasted Meats**: Char siu (barbecued pork) and roast duck, where Zhuyou adds a glossy red sheen during marination.
- **Braised Dishes**: Chaoshan braised goose or pork belly, using Zhuyou to enhance depth and savoriness.
- **Stews**: Red-cooked pork or braised pig trotters, leveraging its rich umami to penetrate ingredients.

---

#### **Chemical Role in Cooking**
1. **Coloring**: Melanoidins (from fermentation) and sugars undergo the Maillard reaction during cooking, creating a deep red hue.
2. **Umami Enhancement**: Amino acids like glutamic acid amplify savory flavors.
3. **Preservation**: High salt content and organic acids inhibit microbial growth, extending shelf life.

---

#### **Why Zhuyou Was Replaced by Dark Soy Sauce**
1. **Industrialization**: Dark soy sauce (laochou) uses standardized caramel coloring for consistent results, fitting mass production.
2. **Cost and Efficiency**: Traditional Zhuyou’s lengthy fermentation raised costs; dark soy sauce is quicker and cheaper.
3. **Flavor Trends**: Modern palates favor bold, caramelized notes, which laochou delivers more readily.
4. **Cultural Shift**: Younger chefs lack familiarity with Zhuyou, while soy sauce brands prioritize promoting light/dark categories.

---

#### **Modern Alternatives and Revival**
Though rare today, some Chaoshan heritage brands preserve Zhuyou for authentic traditional dishes. While dark soy sauce offers convenience, it lacks Zhuyou’s layered umami. Recently, nostalgia-driven dining trends have revived interest in Zhuyou as a cultural symbol, showcasing artisanal craftsmanship in high-end Cantonese cuisine.

**Conclusion**: Zhuyou’s decline reflects the clash between traditional food culture and industrialization. Its unique flavor remains a testament to Cantonese culinary history.