鱼头浓汤 Fish Head Thick Soup

[Ho Kwok Leung]

鱼头浓汤

鱼头豆腐由于乾隆的赏识和推崇，身价倍增，成了杭州王润兴等菜馆的看家名菜，慕名而来品尝者络绎不绝。因为豆腐天热容易变质，供应受到限制，杭州的厨师在保留鱼头豆腐基本特色的基础上，选用火腿、菜心作配料，精心烹制了“鱼头浓汤”。此菜汤浓如奶，鱼肉油润嫩滑，鲜美可口，别有风味，而成为与“鱼头豆腐”相提并论的“姐妹菜”，双双并列为杭州的传统风味名菜。

食材
鳙鱼头（带一截鱼肉）半爿（约重750）。

- 配料：
熟火腿25克，
菜心4 - 5棵。

- 调料：
葱结1个，
姜1块，
绍酒40克，
精盐10克，
味精5克，
熟猪油75克，
熟鸡油5克。
姜末醋1小碟。

烹飪方法
1
选用重约2500克的新鲜鳙鱼（即花鲢，俗称胖头鱼、包头鱼），取不带脊骨，自胸鳍处切断，连肉的鱼头半爿（俗称“雌爿”）。鳃肉处轻剐一刀，背肉处斜剞一刀，用清水洗净。姜去皮拍松，菜心削洗净（大的一开四，小的对剖开），熟火腿切薄片。
2
炒锅置旺火上烧热，滑锅后下熟猪油，至五成热时，将鱼头先用沸水烫一下，剖面朝上放入炒锅略煎，翻转鱼头，放入绍酒、葱结、姜块，加沸水1750克，盖上锅盖，用旺火烧约5 - 7分钟，加入菜心略滚（约1分钟），然后将鱼头取出盛入品锅，菜心放在鱼头的四周，捞去汤中的葱姜，撇去浮沫，加精盐和味精调味，将汤汁用细筛滤过，倒入品锅，装置上火腿片，淋上熟鸡油，上桌随带姜末醋一碟。

【掌握关键】

劈取鱼头时应保留鱼脑。
炒锅与锅盖应洗刷干净，加盖烧煮中途不要启盖，否则汤不净，色不浓。
氽煮时不可加盐，汤浓后再调味。

**Fish Head Thick Soup**

Fish Head Tofu, once elevated to fame by Emperor Qianlong’s admiration, became a signature dish at Hangzhou restaurants like Wang Runxing, attracting countless visitors. However, due to tofu’s perishability in hot weather, its availability was limited. To preserve the essence of Fish Head Tofu while adapting it, Hangzhou chefs crafted "Fish Head Thick Soup" using ham and bok choy as key ingredients. This dish features a milky-rich broth, tender fish meat, and a uniquely savory flavor, earning it equal acclaim as the "sister dish" of Fish Head Tofu. Both are now celebrated as iconic Hangzhou delicacies.

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### **Ingredients**
- **Main**:
Bighead carp head (with a portion of flesh, ~750g).

- **Accompaniments**:
25g cooked ham,
4–5 bok choy hearts.

- **Seasonings**:
1 scallion knot,
1 piece ginger,
40g Shaoxing wine,
10g salt,
5g MSG,
75g lard (melted),
5g chicken oil (melted),
1 small dish ginger-vinegar dipping sauce.

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### **Cooking Method**
1. **Prepare the Fish**:
Select a fresh bighead carp (~2500g). Use half the head (without the spine, cut from the pectoral fin, known as the "female half"). Lightly score the gill flesh and make a diagonal cut on the back. Rinse thoroughly. Peel and smash the ginger. Trim bok choy (halve or quarter depending on size). Slice ham thinly.

2. **Cook the Soup**:
Heat a wok over high flame, grease with lard. When oil is medium-hot, briefly blanch the fish head in boiling water. Place cut-side down in the wok to lightly sear. Flip, add Shaoxing wine, scallion, ginger, and pour in 1750g boiling water. Cover and boil vigorously for 5–7 minutes. Add bok choy and simmer briefly (~1 minute).

3. **Assemble**:
Transfer the fish head to a tureen, arrange bok choy around it. Strain the broth, discard scallion/ginger, skim impurities. Season with salt and MSG. Pour strained broth into the tureen, top with ham slices, drizzle chicken oil. Serve with ginger-vinegar sauce on the side.

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### **Key Tips**
- Retain the fish’s brain when splitting the head.
- Ensure the wok and lid are spotless; avoid opening the lid during boiling to maintain clarity and richness.
- Season with salt only after the broth thickens, not during cooking.