卷煎 Shandong Egg Roll (Juanjian)

[Ho Kwok Leung]

卷煎
山东传统菜肴。据清·康熙年版之《食宪鸿秘》记载：“卷煎，将蛋推皮，以碎肉加料卷好，仍用蛋糊口。猪油、白糖、甜酱和烧。切片用。”制法是先将馅料卷起，后再烧之。后经改进，成为今天的卷而蒸成。在历史有记载距今近三百年的菜肴，可谓难得。此菜黄白相间，切成片状，是极有特色的碟菜。

食材
猪嫩瘦肉150克，

調料
鸡蛋清1个，
湿淀粉50克，
花生油15克，
鸡蛋2个，
精盐7克，
芝麻油15克。

烹飪方法
1
准备工作：将猪嫩瘦肉剁成碎馅，放入碗内，再加精盐、鸡蛋清、湿淀粉、芝麻油调匀成馅；鸡蛋另磕碗内，搅打均匀。
将炒勺放中火上，烧热后加入花生油晃匀，至五成热时，倒入鸡蛋，随即将炒勺晃动使蛋液成为直径1尺左右、厚薄均匀的薄饼。再将炒勺翻过朝下，用火嘘一下，取下成蛋皮。
2
将蛋皮饼平铺案板上，把馅均匀摊在蛋皮上，抹平后卷起，成蛋卷。
3
蒸制：将蛋卷放在大盘内，入笼用旺火蒸15分钟取出，用洁净白纱布包起，上压重物晾凉即成。
食时，切薄片装盘。
【附注】
也可用紫菜作皮。馅料还可用鱼、虾、鸡肉调制。

**Shandong Egg Roll (Juanjian)**
A traditional Shandong dish documented in the *Shi Xian Hong Mi* (康熙 edition, Qing Dynasty): *"Juanjian: Spread egg into a thin wrap, roll with seasoned minced meat, seal with egg paste. Cook with lard, sugar, and sweet sauce. Slice to serve."* Originally braised after rolling, it evolved into the steamed version we know today. This nearly 300-year-old delicacy features striking gold-and-ivory hues when sliced, making it an iconic plated appetizer.

**Ingredients**
- Tender pork loin: 150g

**Seasonings**
- Egg white: 1
- Potato starch slurry: 50g
- Peanut oil: 15g
- Eggs: 2
- Salt: 7g
- Sesame oil: 15g

**Instructions**
1. **Prep**
- Mince pork into fine paste. Combine with salt, egg white, starch slurry, and sesame oil in a bowl.
- Beat 2 eggs in separate bowl.

*Egg wrap technique*:
- Heat wok over medium flame. Swirl peanut oil to coat surface. At 150°C (oil shimmers with faint wisps), pour in beaten eggs. Rotate wok immediately to form a 30cm-diameter, paper-thin crepe. Flip wok briefly over flame to set shape. Remove as golden egg wrap.

2. **Assembly**
- Lay egg wrap flat. Spread filling evenly, leaving 2cm border. Roll tightly into log, sealing edge with leftover egg mixture.

3. **Steaming**
- Steam roll on high heat for 15 minutes. Wrap in cheesecloth while hot, press with weights for 2 hours to compact.

**Serving**
Slice into 3mm-thick rounds. Arrange in overlapping spirals.

**Notes**
- Alternative wraps: Nori seaweed sheets
- Filling variations: Fish (white-fleshed), shrimp (hand-chopped), or chicken (thigh meat preferred).

**Cultural Context**
This culinary artifact embodies Confucian "harmony" philosophy: The egg's golden yang energy envelops the pork's earthy yin essence. Modern iterations honor tradition while embracing regional produce—coastal versions might layer abalone slivers, while mountainous adaptations use wild mushroom duxelles.

[Ho Kwok Leung]

山东卷煎：三百年传承的匠心美味

【历史渊源】
这道源自康熙年间的齐鲁名肴，以《食宪鸿秘》记载为蓝本，经三百年厨艺演变，将"卷后烧制"改良为"卷而蒸成"，完美保留了食材本味。金黄的蛋衣裹着白玉般的肉馅，恰似鲁绣中的金银丝交叠，是宴席冷盘中的艺术珍品。

【核心要诀】
1. 蛋皮三境界：
- 油温掌控：五成热（约150℃）时下蛋液，可用竹筷试温（插入油中泛起细密小泡）
- 旋转技法：持勺柄顺时针转三圈，逆时针转两圈，形成均匀圆月
- 火候口诀："嘘火定形"：翻勺后离火10秒，用余温固化形状

2. 肉馅黄金比例：
瘦肉（梅花肉最佳）150g : 蛋清1个 : 淀粉（地瓜粉）25g : 水20ml
顺时针搅拌至"三光"状态（碗光、手光、馅料发亮）

【创新演绎】
- 海味版：虾仁（40%）+墨鱼（30%）+猪颈肉（30%）打成胶，加马蹄粒增脆
- 素食版：老豆腐挤干+香菇丁+烤麸碎，以腐皮替代蛋皮
- 花式造型：双色蛋皮（蛋黄/蛋清分层煎制）卷制后切菱形块

【工序详解】
1. 古法蛋皮制作：
选用土鸡蛋（蛋香浓郁），加3滴米醋去腥。铁勺烧至滴水成珠，用猪油膘均匀擦勺，倒入蛋液瞬间提勺离火，利用离心力形成薄而不破的蛋衣。

2. 秘制馅料：
传统"三剁法"：先切石榴粒大小，再用双刀背交替捶打（保留纤维感），最后刀刃轻斩收尾。调入葱姜水（分三次加入）直至"水打馅"起胶。

3. 蒸制玄机：
垫青竹箬叶蒸制，竹香渗透。蒸笼留1指缝透气，避免水汽回流。蒸后立即用浸过山泉水的棉布包裹，压重石2小时定型，形成紧致不散的质地。

【品鉴之道】
- 刀工：45度斜刀切0.3cm薄片，摆盘呈凤尾层叠式
- 蘸碟：传统三味碟（甜面酱+蒜泥/黄芥末+鱼露柠檬汁）
- 配饮：佐以即墨老酒（温饮），解腻增香

这道承载着鲁菜精髓的卷煎，每一口都能品读到三百年厨艺智慧的传承。当蛋皮的焦香邂逅肉馅的鲜嫩，正是《齐民要术》中"食不厌精，脍不厌细"的最佳诠释。

**Shandong Egg Roll (Juanjian): A 300-Year Legacy of Culinary Craftsmanship**

**[Historical Roots]**
Born during the Kangxi era, this Qilu delicacy evolved from braised rolls (*"juan hou shao zhi"*) in the *Shi Xian Hong Mi* culinary canon to today’s steamed perfection. The golden egg mantle cradling jade-white pork mirrors the gold-silver thread interplay in Shandong embroidery, transforming cold appetizers into edible artistry.

**[Core Techniques]**
1. **Egg Wrap Trilogy**
- *Oil Control*: 150°C (5/10 heat stage), tested by bamboo chopstick bubbles
- *Rotary Mastery*: 3 clockwise + 2 counterclockwise swirls for lunar-round perfection
- *Heat Mantra*: "Hiss-fire shaping" – 10-second off-heat curing post-flip

2. **Meat Filling Golden Ratio**
150g lean pork (preferably collar butt) : 1 egg white : 25g sweet potato starch : 20ml water
Stir clockwise to "Triple Gloss" (clean bowl, clean hands, glossy filling)

**[Innovative Variations]**
- *Ocean Edition*: 40% shrimp + 30% cuttlefish + 30% pork jowl, bound with water chestnut crunch
- *Vegetarian Twist*: Pressed tofu + shiitake dices + wheat bran gluten, wrapped in yuba sheets
- *Artisan Shapes*: Dual-tone wraps (yolk/white layers) rolled into diamond-cut jewels

**[Process Demystified]**
1. **Heritage Egg Wrap**
- Use free-range eggs (3 drops rice vinegar for deodorizing)
- Season cast-iron wok: Heat until "water pearls dance," grease with lard slab
- Pour batter while lifting wok, using centrifugal force for gossamer-thin wraps

2. **Secret Filling Alchemy**
- *Triple-Chop Method*:
1. Dice to pomegranate-seed size
2. Pound with knife backs for texture retention
3. Fine-mince with blade edge
- Incorporate scallion-ginger water (3 gradual additions) until "water-whipped glue" forms

3. **Steaming Secrets**
- Line with fresh bamboo leaves for aroma infusion
- Leave 2cm steam gap to prevent condensation
- Press with river stones wrapped in spring-water-soaked cloth for 2hr compacting

**[Art of Appreciation]**
- *Knife Work*: 45° bias cuts (3mm thickness), fanned in phoenix-tail formation
- *Dipping Trio*: Classic triad – sweet bean paste / garlic-mustard blend / lime-fish sauce
- *Pairing*: Warmed Jimo Laojiu (aged yellow rice wine) to cut richness

This culinary heirloom embodies the *Qimin Yaoshu* philosophy: *"No excess in refinement, no shortcut in mincing."* Each bite whispers three centuries of Shandong wisdom, where the egg’s caramelized aroma waltzes with the filling’s tender succulence—a testament to Confucian gastronomy’s eternal pursuit of harmony.