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概述 Overview

Posted: Thu Jan 30, 2025 1:51 pm
by Ho Kwok Leung
**概述**
福建省位于我国东南部,东际大海,西北负山,气候温和。山珍、野味、水产资源十分丰富。《福建通志》早有“茶笋山水之饶遍天下”“鱼盐蟹蛤匹富青齐”的记载。宋人鲍振曾有诗曰:“两信湖生海接天,鱼虾入市不论钱”。这些富饶的物产,早在一千多年前就被劳动人民广为利用,烹制出珍馐佳肴,脍炙人口,逐步形成独具一格的闽菜。《闽产录异》就有“梅鱼以姜、蒜、冬菜、火腿炖之或红糟、酸菜、雪里蕻煮之皆美品”“雪鱼佐酒,鲜者、炸者、腌者、冻者便可”等烹调方法的记载,相传至今,仍然为人们所采用,如“酸菜江梅鱼”“山东葱烧雪鱼”都继承了这些传统的烹调方法。唐宋以来,随着泉州、福州、厦门先后对外通商,四方商贾云集,京广等地的烹饪技术相继传入,闽菜的制作,在继承传统风味的基础上,不断吸收了新技艺,使有些原来较油腻的菜肴,逐渐变为精细、清雅、淡素的佳馔,在色、香、味、形上更加绚丽多彩。

闽菜以烹制山珍海味而著称,其风味特点是清鲜、和醇、荤香、不腻。在烹调上则偏甜、偏淡、偏酸,特别讲究汤的制作,其汤路之广、种类之多、味道之妙可谓一大特色,素有“一汤十变”之说。如用牛肉、鸡肉、火腿制成三茸汤之后,根据菜肴烹制的需要,再选择干贝、鱿鱼、红精、素冬菜、梅干菜、龙井茶叶或夜来香花等辅料中的一种料汁,掺进三茸汤,使汤的味道起了变化,给人以汤醇荤香、口味一新之感。闽菜在烹制上擅长炒、焗、蒸、炸、煨、炖,尤以炒、煨见长,如“炒西施舌”“炒玻璃钱鱼”、坛煨“佛跳墙”等,其刀工、火候较为精致,不仅美味怡人,而且细、嫩、鲜、脆。

闽菜有福州、闽南、闽西三路不同的技艺和风味。福州菜清鲜、淡爽,偏于甜酸,尤其讲究调汤,有“无汤不行”的说法,汤鲜、味美,汤种多样,具有传统特色。它的另一特色是善用红糟作配料,有煎糟、红糟、拉糟、醉糟等多种多样的烹调方法。传统名菜“醉糟鸡”“糟汁川海蚌”等,不仅糟香扑鼻,有着浓厚的地方色彩,为广大群众所喜爱,而且也深受海外侨胞的欢迎。“糟香思故乡”,就是他们在异地对家乡菜的赞叹。闽南菜以讲究作料、善用甜辣著称,如“桔汁加力鱼”“芥辣鸡丝”“东壁龙珠”等,在使用辣椒酱、沙茶酱、芥末酱、桔汁方面都恰到好处。尤其是沙茶酱烹制的菜肴饶有风味,如“沙茶烟鸭块”,将沙茶酱独特的醉香渗透鸭块,不仅质鲜而荤香,而且甜辣适中,体现了独特的闽南食趣。闽西菜则稍偏咸、辣,如“油焖石鳞”“爆炒地猴”等,都具有浓厚的山区风味特点。

**Overview**
Fujian Province is located in the southeastern part of China, bordered by the sea to the east and mountains to the northwest, with a mild climate. It boasts abundant resources of mountain delicacies, game, and aquatic products. The *Fujian Tongzhi* (General Annals of Fujian) records: "Tea, bamboo shoots, and mountain-water treasures abound across the land," and "Fish, salt, crabs, and clams rival the riches of Qing and Qi." Song Dynasty poet Bao Zhen once wrote: "Twin tides merge with the sky-reaching sea; fish and shrimp flood the markets, priceless yet free." These bountiful ingredients were utilized by laborers over a thousand years ago to create exquisite dishes, gradually forming the distinctive Fujian Cuisine (Min Cuisine). The *Minchan Luyi* (Records of Fujian’s Products) documents cooking methods such as "stewing plum fish with ginger, garlic, winter vegetables, and ham, or simmering it with red yeast rice, pickled cabbage, and preserved mustard greens," and "serving snowfish fresh, fried, salted, or frozen as accompaniments to wine." These techniques are still practiced today, as seen in dishes like "Pickled Cabbage with Plum Fish" and "Shandong-Style Braised Snowfish with Scallions." Since the Tang and Song dynasties, with the opening of Quanzhou, Fuzhou, and Xiamen as international trade ports, merchants from across the land gathered, and culinary techniques from Beijing, Guangdong, and other regions were introduced. Building on traditional flavors, Fujian Cuisine absorbed new skills, transforming once-greasy dishes into refined, elegant, and light delicacies, enriching their color, aroma, taste, and presentation.

Fujian Cuisine is renowned for its preparation of mountain and seafood delicacies. Its flavors are characterized by freshness, harmony, richness, and non-greasiness. Cooking techniques emphasize sweetness, mildness, and acidity, with a particular focus on soups. The variety, diversity, and ingenuity of its soups are legendary, earning the saying "one broth transforms tenfold." For example, a base broth made from beef, chicken, and ham (Three Meat Broth) can be infused with ingredients like dried scallops, squid, red yeast rice, preserved winter vegetables, dried mustard greens, Longjing tea leaves, or night-blooming jasmine, creating layers of aromatic complexity. Fujian Cuisine excels in stir-frying, braising, steaming, frying, simmering, and stewing—especially stir-frying and simmering. Signature dishes like "Stir-Fried Razor Clams (Xishi’s Tongue)," "Stir-Fried Glass-Crisp Fish," and the iconic "Buddha Jumps Over the Wall" (simmered in a clay pot) showcase meticulous knife skills and heat control, delivering textures that are tender, crisp, and bursting with freshness.

Fujian Cuisine is further divided into three regional styles: **Fuzhou**, **Southern Fujian**, and **Western Fujian**.
- **Fuzhou Cuisine** emphasizes lightness, subtle sweetness, and acidity, with soups being indispensable. The saying "no dish is complete without soup" highlights its tradition of diverse, flavorful broths. Another hallmark is the creative use of red yeast rice (e.g., fermented, fried, or wine-infused) in dishes like "Drunken Red Yeast Chicken" and "Red Yeast Broth with Razor Clams," which are beloved locally and by overseas communities. The phrase "the aroma of red yeast evokes homesickness" reflects its nostalgic appeal.
- **Southern Fujian Cuisine** focuses on bold seasonings, balancing sweetness and spiciness. Dishes like "Orange-Glazed Garoupa," "Mustard-Spiced Chicken Shreds," and "Dongbi Dragon Pearl" masterfully use chili sauce, satay sauce, mustard, and citrus. Satay-marinated dishes, such as "Satay-Smoked Duck," exemplify the region’s unique flavor profile—aromatic, savory, and perfectly balanced.
- **Western Fujian Cuisine** leans toward saltier and spicier flavors, featuring rustic mountain dishes like "Braised Stone Frog" and "Stir-Fried Field Hare."