绍兴酒 Shaoxing wine

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Ho Kwok Leung
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绍兴酒 Shaoxing wine

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绍兴酒,浙江省绍兴市特产,中国国家地理标志产品。
绍兴酒,又称绍兴黄酒、绍兴老酒,随着时间的久远而更为浓烈,所以绍兴酒称老酒,越陈越香。绍兴酒生产历史悠久,据文献记载,春秋战国时期绍兴酿酒业已很普遍。《吕氏春秋》载有越王勾践“投醪劳师”的故事,至今城内尚有“投醪河”遗址。到南北朝时,绍兴老酒已成为贡品。在全国众多的酒类中,绍兴老酒是获奖次数最多的品种之一。

2000年1月31日,原国家质检总局批准对“绍兴酒”实施地理标志产品保护。

以上资料来源:百度百科

### **一、分类与特点**
绍兴酒按含糖量和酿造工艺分为四大经典类型:
1. **元红酒**(干型):含糖量低(≤15g/L),酒色橙黄,口感干爽,代表传统风格。
2. **加饭酒**(半干型):酿造时增加糯米比例,酒体醇厚,香气浓郁,代表品牌如“古越龙山”。
3. **善酿酒**(半甜型):以陈年黄酒代替水二次发酵,甜味柔和,具焦糖香气。
4. **香雪酒**(甜型):用麦曲加酒糟蒸馏的糟烧代替水,糖分高(≥100g/L),色泽琥珀,香甜适口。

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### **二、酿造工艺**
1. **原料**:精选糯米、小麦曲、鉴湖水(水质清冽,硬度适中,富含矿物质)。
2. **核心步骤**:
- **浸米**:糯米浸泡至充分吸水,耗时数日。
- **蒸饭**:蒸熟后摊凉,拌入麦曲。
- **发酵**:传统陶缸中低温长时间发酵(冬酿春成,约80-90天)。
- **压榨与煎酒**:过滤后高温杀菌(“煎酒”),装入陶坛陈酿。
3. **陈年**:优质绍兴酒需窖藏数年甚至数十年,赋予复杂风味。

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### **三、文化与用途**
- **文化象征**:绍兴酒与书法、越剧并称“绍兴三宝”,常见于文人墨客笔下(如鲁迅《孔乙己》中的“温两碗黄酒”)。
- **饮食搭配**:常温饮用或温饮,佐以大闸蟹、茴香豆等;亦用于烹饪(如醉虾、酒糟鸡)。
- **礼仪场合**:婚宴“女儿红”、出生时埋藏的“状元红”习俗,寓意吉祥。

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### **四、知名品牌与荣誉**
- **品牌**:古越龙山、会稽山、塔牌、咸亨酒店等。
- **国际认可**:多次获布鲁塞尔国际酒类大赛金奖,2006年获国家地理标志产品保护。

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### **五、健康与品鉴**
- **营养成分**:富含氨基酸、维生素,适量饮用可促进血液循环。
- **保存**:阴凉避光,开坛后需密封冷藏并尽快饮用。

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绍兴酒不仅是一种饮品,更是江南文化的重要载体,其千年工艺与独特风味持续吸引着全球爱酒者的目光。

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选择绍兴酒时,需根据个人口味偏好、饮用场景(佐餐、烹饪或送礼)以及预算综合考量。以下是具体的选购指南:

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### **一、按类型选择**
绍兴酒四大经典类型对应不同甜度与风味,适合不同场景:
1. **元红酒(干型)**
- **特点**:干爽微苦,酒体轻盈。
- **适合**:搭配海鲜(如清蒸鱼)、凉菜,或作为餐前开胃酒。
- **推荐品牌**:塔牌经典元红、会稽山八年陈。

2. **加饭酒(半干型)**
- **特点**:醇厚鲜香,带焦糖与坚果气息。
- **适合**:日常佐餐(如红烧肉、醉蟹),烹饪提鲜(如黄酒焖鸡)。
- **推荐品牌**:古越龙山金五年、咸亨酒店十年陈。

3. **善酿酒(半甜型)**
- **特点**:甜润柔和,有蜂蜜与果脯香。
- **适合**:甜口爱好者,搭配甜点(如桂花糕)或单独小酌。
- **推荐品牌**:会稽山善酿、塔牌冬酿。

4. **香雪酒(甜型)**
- **特点**:浓甜馥郁,类似甜酒。
- **适合**:冰镇后配麻辣火锅解辣,或调制鸡尾酒。
- **推荐品牌**:古越龙山香雪、女儿红香雪。

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### **二、按场景与用途选择**
1. **送礼/收藏**
- **选高端年份酒**:古越龙山“中央库藏30年”、会稽山“兰亭二十年”,陶坛装更显传统。
- **特色礼盒**:咸亨酒店“孔乙己礼盒”、塔牌“手酿冬酒”文创包装。

2. **日常饮用**
- **性价比款**:古越龙山银五年、会稽山纯正五年(价格50-150元/瓶)。
- **小规格装**:500ml玻璃瓶或小坛装,方便保存。

3. **烹饪用酒**
- **选普通加饭酒**:古越龙山三年陈、咸亨烹饪黄酒(价格10-30元/瓶),避免用高端酒浪费。

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### **三、选购注意事项**
1. **看年份**
- 3-5年:基础款,适合日常饮用。
- 10年以上:口感圆润,陈香明显,价格通常300元起。

2. **辨真伪**
- **地理标志**:认准“绍兴酒”国家地理标志(GB/T 17946)。
- **酒液状态**:优质酒清澈无悬浮物,陈年酒微黏稠挂杯。

3. **选包装**
- **陶坛装**:透气性好,适合长期存放(需阴凉避光)。
- **玻璃瓶装**:便于观察酒色,开瓶后冷藏一周内喝完。

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### **四、价格参考**
| 类型 | 基础款(3-5年) | 中端款(8-10年) | 高端款(15年+) |
|------------|----------------|-----------------|----------------|
| **元红酒** | 30-60元 | 80-150元 | 200-500元 |
| **加饭酒** | 40-80元 | 100-300元 | 500-1000元 |
| **善酿酒** | 50-100元 | 150-400元 | 600-2000元 |
| **香雪酒** | 60-120元 | 200-500元 | 800-3000元 |

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### **五、小贴士**
- **试饮装**:初次尝试可购买50ml小瓶装,对比不同品牌风味。
- **温饮技巧**:加饭酒可隔水加热至40℃左右,加姜丝或话梅增香。
- **避坑提醒**:避免购买标注“料酒”但无地理标志的产品,可能含添加剂。

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掌握以上要点,便能轻松挑选到适合的绍兴酒,无论是品鉴江南风味还是传承文化仪式感,都能找到心仪之选。


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绍兴酒的酿制过程较为复杂,对原料、环境和技术要求较高,但通过简化工艺和调整条件,家庭也可以尝试自制类似风味的黄酒。以下是家庭自酿绍兴酒的基本步骤和注意事项:

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### **一、家庭自酿绍兴酒的基本流程**

#### **1. 准备原料与工具**
- **原料**:
- 糯米(2-3公斤,圆粒糯米最佳)
- 酒曲(传统黄酒曲或甜酒曲,用量按包装说明)
- 清水(纯净水或凉白开,避免生水)
- **工具**:
- 蒸锅、发酵容器(陶缸/玻璃罐/食品级塑料桶)
- 温度计、纱布、搅拌工具

#### **2. 具体步骤**
1. **浸米**
- 糯米洗净后浸泡24-48小时(夏季缩短至12小时),至米粒可轻易捏碎。

2. **蒸饭**
- 糯米沥干后蒸熟(约30分钟),蒸至米粒透明无硬芯,摊凉至30℃左右。

3. **拌曲**
- 将酒曲碾碎,按比例(通常为糯米重量的0.5%-1%)均匀拌入糯米饭中。
- 加入少量凉白开(水量约为糯米的1.5倍),搅拌成糊状。

4. **前发酵(糖化)**
- 将混合物装入发酵容器,中间挖一个“酒窝”观察出酒情况。
- 密封容器,保持温度25-30℃,静置2-3天,产生甜酒酿(糖化阶段)。

5. **后发酵(酒化)**
- 加入凉白开(水量约为糯米的1-2倍),搅拌后密封。
- 转入低温环境(15-20℃),发酵15-30天,每日搅拌1-2次促进发酵。

6. **压榨与澄清**
- 用纱布过滤酒液,去除酒糟,静置1-2天让杂质沉淀。

7. **煎酒(杀菌)**
- 将酒液加热至80-85℃(保持15分钟)杀菌,冷却后装瓶密封。

8. **陈酿**
- 阴凉避光处存放3个月以上,酒体逐渐醇厚。

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### **二、家庭自酿的难点与注意事项**
1. **卫生控制**
- 所有工具需高温消毒(沸水煮/酒精擦拭),避免杂菌污染导致酸败。

2. **温度管理**
- 糖化阶段需25-30℃,酒化阶段需15-20℃。温度过高易产酸,过低发酵缓慢。

3. **酒曲选择**
- 传统绍兴酒用麦曲(含多种霉菌和酵母),家庭可用简化版甜酒曲(如安琪黄酒曲)。

4. **水质影响**
- 鉴湖水的弱碱性是绍兴酒风味的关键,家庭可用纯净水+少量食用碱(0.1%)模拟。

5. **发酵时间**
- 家庭发酵通常需1个月以上,陈酿时间越长风味越佳(至少3个月)。

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### **三、与正宗绍兴酒的差异**
| **对比项** | **家庭自酿** | **传统绍兴酒** |
|------------------|----------------------------------|------------------------------------|
| **原料** | 普通糯米+简化酒曲 | 特制糯米+小麦曲+鉴湖水 |
| **发酵环境** | 温度波动大,杂菌风险较高 | 陶缸低温长时间发酵(冬酿春成) |
| **陈酿时间** | 通常3-6个月 | 优质酒需3年以上 |
| **风味复杂度** | 较单一,甜味或酸味明显 | 层次丰富,兼具鲜、苦、香、醇 |

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### **四、实用建议**
1. **新手尝试**:
- 首次建议少量制作(1公斤糯米),避免失败浪费。

2. **改良配方**:
- 加入桂花、枸杞等增香,或调配蜂蜜改善口感。

3. **安全提示**:
- 发酵时容器留1/3空间,避免产气爆炸;酒精含量约12%-16%,饮用适量。

4. **法律风险**:
- 部分国家/地区禁止家庭酿酒售卖,需遵守当地法规。

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### **五、失败原因与解决**
- **酒液发酸**:杂菌污染或温度过高→严格消毒、控制温度。
- **发酵停滞**:温度过低或酒曲失效→升温至25℃或补加酒曲。
- **酒味寡淡**:发酵时间不足→延长发酵至30天以上。

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家庭自酿虽难复刻正宗绍兴酒的千年工艺,但通过实践可体验传统黄酒文化,感受发酵的乐趣。若追求专业品质,建议直接购买品牌绍兴酒(如古越龙山、会稽山)更稳妥。
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Shaoxing wine, a special product of Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province, is a product protected as a Chinese national geographical indication.
Shaoxing wine, also known as Shaoxing huangjiu (yellow rice wine) or Shaoxing aged wine, becomes more intense with the passage of time. That's why Shaoxing wine is called aged wine, and it gets more fragrant as it ages. Shaoxing wine has a long production history. According to historical records, the wine-making industry in Shaoxing was quite common during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. "Lu's Spring and Autumn Annals" records the story of King Goujian of Yue "pouring wine to reward the army", and there is still the site of "Toulao River" in the city. By the Southern and Northern Dynasties, Shaoxing aged wine had become a tribute. Among many types of wine in the country, Shaoxing aged wine is one of the varieties that has won the most awards.
On January 31, 2000, the former General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine approved the implementation of geographical indication product protection for "Shaoxing wine".
The above information source: Baidu Encyclopedia
I. Classification and Characteristics
Shaoxing wine is divided into four classic types according to sugar content and brewing process:
Yuanhong wine (dry type): With a low sugar content (≤15g/L), it has an orange-yellow color and a dry taste, representing the traditional style.
Jiafan wine (semi-dry type): The proportion of glutinous rice is increased during brewing. The wine has a mellow body and a rich aroma. Representative brands include "Guyuelongshan".
Shanniang wine (semi-sweet type): It is fermented a second time with aged huangjiu instead of water. It has a soft sweetness and a caramel aroma.
Xiangxue wine (sweet type): It uses the distillate of wheat qu and wine lees instead of water. With a high sugar content (≥100g/L), it has an amber color and a sweet and palatable taste.
II. Brewing Process
Raw materials: Selected glutinous rice, wheat qu, and Jianhu Lake water (the water is clear and cool, with moderate hardness and rich in minerals).
Core steps:
Soaking the rice: The glutinous rice is soaked until it absorbs enough water, which takes several days.
Steaming the rice: After steaming the rice, it is spread out to cool down, and then wheat qu is mixed in.
Fermentation: Fermented at a low temperature for a long time in traditional ceramic jars (brewed in winter and completed in spring, about 80-90 days).
Pressing and sterilizing the wine: After filtration, it is sterilized at a high temperature ("sterilizing the wine") and then put into ceramic jars for aging.
Aging: High-quality Shaoxing wine needs to be cellared for several years or even decades, giving it a complex flavor.
III. Culture and Uses
Cultural symbol: Shaoxing wine, calligraphy, and Yue opera are known as the "Three Treasures of Shaoxing" and are often mentioned in the works of literati (such as "Warm two bowls of huangjiu" in Lu Xun's "Kong Yiji").
Food pairing: It can be drunk at room temperature or warmed. It can be paired with hairy crabs, fennel beans, etc.; it is also used in cooking (such as drunken shrimp, wine-lees chicken).
Ceremonial occasions: The customs of "Nuerhong" at weddings and "Zhuangyuanhong" buried at birth imply good luck.
IV. Well-known Brands and Honors
Brands: Guyuelongshan, Kuaijishan, Tapai, Xianheng Hotel, etc.
International recognition: It has won the gold medal in the Brussels International Wine Competition many times and was protected as a national geographical indication product in 2006.
V. Health and Tasting
Nutritional components: Rich in amino acids and vitamins, moderate drinking can promote blood circulation.
Storage: Keep it in a cool and dark place. After opening the jar, seal it and store it in the refrigerator and drink it as soon as possible.
Shaoxing wine is not only a beverage but also an important carrier of Jiangnan culture. Its thousand-year-old craftsmanship and unique flavor continue to attract the attention of wine lovers around the world.
When choosing Shaoxing wine, you need to consider your personal taste preferences, drinking scenarios (accompanying meals, cooking, or giving as a gift), and budget comprehensively. The following is a specific purchasing guide:
I. Choose by Type
The four classic types of Shaoxing wine correspond to different sweetness levels and flavors, suitable for different scenarios:
Yuanhong wine (dry type)
Characteristics: Dry and slightly bitter, with a light body.
Suitable for: Pairing with seafood (such as steamed fish), cold dishes, or as an aperitif before a meal.
Recommended brands: Tapai Classic Yuanhong, Kuaijishan Eight-year-aged.
Jiafan wine (semi-dry type)
Characteristics: Mellow and fragrant, with a caramel and nutty aroma.
Suitable for: Daily meals (such as braised pork, drunken crabs), and enhancing the flavor in cooking (such as braised chicken with huangjiu).
Recommended brands: Guyuelongshan Jinwunian, Xianheng Hotel Ten-year-aged.
Shanniang wine (semi-sweet type)
Characteristics: Sweet and soft, with a honey and dried fruit aroma.
Suitable for: People who like sweet tastes, pairing with desserts (such as osmanthus cakes) or drinking alone in small sips.
Recommended brands: Kuaijishan Shanniang, Tapai Dongniang.
Xiangxue wine (sweet type)
Characteristics: Rich, sweet, and fragrant, similar to sweet wine.
Suitable for: Drinking it chilled to relieve spiciness when having a spicy hot pot, or using it to make cocktails.
Recommended brands: Guyuelongshan Xiangxue, Nu'erhong Xiangxue.
II. Choose by Scenario and Purpose
Giving as a gift/Collecting
Choose high-end aged wine: Guyuelongshan "Central Cellar 30-year-aged", Kuaijishan "Lanting Twenty-year-aged", and the ceramic jar packaging is more traditional.
Special gift boxes: Xianheng Hotel "Kong Yiji Gift Box", Tapai "Hand-brewed Winter Wine" cultural and creative packaging.
Daily drinking
Cost-effective styles: Guyuelongshan Yinwunian, Kuaijishan Chunzhengwunian (the price is 50-150 yuan per bottle).
Small-sized packaging: 500ml glass bottles or small jars are convenient for storage.
Wine for cooking
Choose ordinary Jiafan wine: Guyuelongshan Three-year-aged, Xianheng Cooking Huangjiu (the price is 10-30 yuan per bottle). Avoid wasting high-end wine.
III. Purchasing Precautions
Check the age
3-5 years: Basic style, suitable for daily drinking.
More than 10 years: The taste is mellow, with an obvious aged aroma, and the price usually starts from 300 yuan.
Distinguish authenticity
Geographical indication: Look for the national geographical indication of "Shaoxing wine" (GB/T 17946).
Wine liquid state: High-quality wine is clear without suspended substances, and aged wine is slightly viscous and leaves a film on the glass.
Choose the packaging
Ceramic jar packaging: Good air permeability, suitable for long-term storage (need to be stored in a cool and dark place).
Glass bottle packaging: It is convenient to observe the color of the wine. After opening the bottle, it should be refrigerated and consumed within a week.
IV. Price Reference
Type Basic style (3-5 years) Middle-range style (8-10 years) High-end style (15 years+)
Yuanhong wine 30-60 yuan 80-150 yuan 200-500 yuan
Jiafan wine 40-80 yuan 100-300 yuan 500-1000 yuan
Shanniang wine 50-100 yuan 150-400 yuan 600-2000 yuan
Xiangxue wine 60-120 yuan 200-500 yuan 800-3000 yuan
V. Tips
Tasting samples: For the first try, you can buy 50ml small bottles to compare the flavors of different brands.
Warming tips: Jiafan wine can be heated in a water bath to about 40°C, and adding shredded ginger or preserved plums can enhance the aroma.
Pitfall reminder: Avoid buying products labeled as "cooking wine" but without the geographical indication, which may contain additives.
By mastering the above points, you can easily choose the suitable Shaoxing wine. Whether you want to taste the flavor of Jiangnan or inherit the cultural ritual sense, you can find your favorite choice.
The brewing process of Shaoxing wine is relatively complex and has high requirements for raw materials, the environment, and technology. However, by simplifying the process and adjusting the conditions, families can also try to make huangjiu with a similar flavor. The following are the basic steps and precautions for home-brewing Shaoxing wine:
I. Basic Process of Home-brewing Shaoxing Wine
1. Prepare Raw Materials and Tools
Raw materials:
Glutinous rice (2-3 kilograms, round-grained glutinous rice is the best)
Jiuqu (traditional huangjiu qu or sweet Jiuqu, use according to the packaging instructions)
Clean water (purified water or cooled boiled water, avoid raw water)
Tools:
Steamer, fermentation container (ceramic jar/glass jar/food-grade plastic bucket)
Thermometer, gauze, stirring tool
2. Specific Steps
Soaking the rice
Wash the glutinous rice and soak it for 24-48 hours (shorten to 12 hours in summer) until the rice grains can be easily crushed.
Steaming the rice
Drain the glutinous rice and steam it (about 30 minutes) until the rice grains are transparent without hard cores. Let it cool down to about 30°C.
Mixing with Jiuqu
Crush the Jiuqu and evenly mix it into the glutinous rice according to the proportion (usually 0.5%-1% of the weight of the glutinous rice).
Add a small amount of cooled boiled water (the amount of water is about 1.5 times that of the glutinous rice) and stir it into a paste.
Pre-fermentation (saccharification)
Put the mixture into a fermentation container and dig a "wine pit" in the middle to observe the wine production situation.
Seal the container, keep the temperature at 25-30°C, and let it stand for 2-3 days to produce sweet rice wine (saccharification stage).
Post-fermentation (alcoholization)
Add cooled boiled water (the amount of water is about 1-2 times that of the glutinous rice), stir and seal.
Transfer it to a low-temperature environment (15-20°C) and ferment for 15-30 days, stirring 1-2 times a day to promote fermentation.
Pressing and Clarifying
Filter the wine liquid with gauze to remove the wine lees, and let it stand for 1-2 days to let the impurities settle.
Sterilizing the wine (sterilization)
Heat the wine liquid to 80-85°C (keep it for 15 minutes) for sterilization, and then bottle and seal it after cooling.
Aging
Store it in a cool and dark place for more than 3 months, and the wine body will gradually become mellow.
II. Difficulties and Precautions in Home-brewing
Hygiene control
All tools need to be disinfected at high temperature (boiled in water/wiped with alcohol) to avoid contamination by miscellaneous bacteria, which may lead to acidification.
Temperature management
The saccharification stage requires 25-30°C, and the alcoholization stage requires 15-20°C. If the temperature is too high, it is easy to produce acid; if it is too low, the fermentation will be slow.
Selection of Jiuqu
Traditional Shaoxing wine uses wheat qu (containing a variety of molds and yeasts), and families can use a simplified version of sweet Jiuqu (such as Angel Huangjiu Qu).
Influence of water quality
The weak alkalinity of Jianhu Lake water is the key to the flavor of Shaoxing wine. Families can simulate it with purified water + a small amount of edible alkali (0.1%).
Fermentation time
Home fermentation usually takes more than 1 month, and the longer the aging time, the better the flavor (at least 3 months).
III. Differences from Authentic Shaoxing Wine
Comparison Items Home-brewed Traditional Shaoxing Wine
Raw materials Ordinary glutinous rice + simplified Jiuqu Special glutinous rice + wheat qu + Jianhu Lake water
Fermentation environment Large temperature fluctuations, higher risk of miscellaneous bacteria Fermented at a low temperature for a long time in ceramic jars (brewed in winter and completed in spring)
Aging time Usually 3-6 months High-quality wine needs more than 3 years
Flavor complexity Relatively simple, with obvious sweetness or sourness Rich in layers, with a combination of freshness, bitterness, aroma, and mellow taste
IV. Practical Suggestions
For beginners:
It is recommended to make a small amount (1 kilogram of glutinous rice) for the first time to avoid failure and waste.
Improve the formula:
Add osmanthus flowers, wolfberries, etc. to enhance the aroma, or mix with honey to improve the taste.
Safety tips:
Leave 1/3 of the space in the container during fermentation to avoid explosion due to gas production; the alcohol content is about 12%-16%, and drink it in moderation.
Legal risks:
In some countries/regions, it is prohibited to sell home-brewed wine, so local laws and regulations need to be complied with.
V. Reasons for Failure and Solutions
The wine liquid turns sour: Contamination by miscellaneous bacteria or too high a temperature → Sterilize strictly and control the temperature.
Fermentation stops: Too low a temperature or the Jiuqu is ineffective → Raise the temperature to 25°C or add more Jiuqu.
The wine taste is weak: Insufficient fermentation time → Extend the fermentation to more than 30 days.
Although it is difficult to replicate the thousand-year-old craftsmanship of authentic Shaoxing wine through home-brewing, you can experience the traditional huangjiu culture and feel the fun of fermentation through practice. If you pursue professional quality, it is more advisable to directly buy branded Shaoxing wine (such as Guyuelongshan, Kuaijishan).
Ho Kwok Leung
Site Admin
Posts: 455
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绍酒脚 The Dregs of Shaoxing Wine

Post by Ho Kwok Leung »

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《酒脚》
老酒千层脚”,“脚”是我国绍兴方言,意即沉淀物。其中的主要原因在于绍兴黄酒采用糯米、小麦和鉴湖水酿制而成,酒中含有大量的小分子蛋白质,这些小分子蛋白质在贮存过程中会凝聚而沉淀下来,对人体没有任何伤害。

在上世纪80年代,绍兴酒的酒脚如何处理
粮管所,供销社,小酒店,私人酿酒卖的黄酒,都会剩下酒脚,
有的用绸带过滤后直接卖
有的没有用绸带直接卖
2毛左右一斤
物质匮乏的年代
有酒瘾又舍不得买上层酒、中层酒
只能买低价的残酒,所谓的底酒
混浊的酒脚~

《又醉又饱》
在小酒店柜台买酒脚,人家是用绸带过滤了又过滤的酒,几乎只有残渣了,没有酒水了,老百姓低廉的价格买回家加面粉+水混合下,做个酒馒头,又可以吃饱,又搭的到酒的味道,所以民间有一句话叫,又醉又饱。

《柜台酒》
在旧时和物资紧缺年代,大多站在酒店柜台边喝酒的习俗。它集买酒、卖酒和饮酒为一体的销售和消费的方式。这种习俗一般是当时下层或普通民众的消费形式。
一碗酒脚,一叠罗汉豆,站着吃喝,跟鲁迅短篇小说中的孔乙己一样。

《孔乙己》是近代文学巨匠鲁迅所著的短篇小说,最早发表在1919年4月《新青年》第六卷第四号,后编入《呐喊》,是鲁迅在五四运动前夕继《狂人日记》之后第二篇白话小说。

小说描写了孔乙己在封建腐朽思想和科举制度毒害下,精神上迂腐不堪、麻木不仁,生活上四体不勤、穷困潦倒,在人们的嘲笑戏谑中混度时日,最后被封建地主阶级所吞噬的悲惨形象。篇幅不长,但是深刻揭露了当时科举制度对知识分子精神的毒害和封建制度“吃人”的本质,具有强烈的反封建意义。

《孔乙己》是鲁迅先生所著的一篇经典的短篇小说,自1922年以来就作为小说的典范被编入不同时期的语文教材之中,在1986年被确定为中学语文教材中的基本篇目,并占据着重要的地位


以下是鲁迅短篇小说孔乙己原文
  鲁镇的酒店的格局,是和别处不同的:都是当街一个曲尺形的大柜台,柜里面预备着热水,可以随时温酒。做工的人,傍午傍晚散了工,每每花四文铜钱,买一碗酒,——这是二十多年前的事,现在每碗要涨到十文,——靠柜外站着,热热的喝了休息;倘肯多花一文,便可以买一碟盐煮笋,或者茴香豆,做下酒物了,如果出到十几文,那就能买一样荤菜,但这些顾客,多是短衣帮,大抵没有这样阔绰。只有穿长衫的,才踱进店面隔壁的房子里,要酒要菜,慢慢地坐喝。

  我从十二岁起,便在镇口的咸亨酒店里当伙计,掌柜说,样子太傻,怕侍候不了长衫主顾,就在外面做点事罢。外面的短衣主顾,虽然容易说话,但唠唠叨叨缠夹不清的也很不少。他们往往要亲眼看着黄酒从坛子里舀出,看过壶子底里有水没有,又亲看将壶子放在热水里,然后放心:在这严重兼督下,羼水也很为难。所以过了几天,掌柜又说我干不了这事。幸亏荐头的情面大,辞退不得,便改为专管温酒的一种无聊职务了。

  我从此便整天的站在柜台里,专管我的职务。虽然没有什么失职,但总觉得有些单调,有些无聊。掌柜是一副凶脸孔,主顾也没有好声气,教人活泼不得;只有孔乙己到店,才可以笑几声,所以至今还记得。

  孔乙己是站着喝酒而穿长衫的唯一的人。他身材很高大;青白脸色,皱纹间时常夹些伤痕;一部乱蓬蓬的花白的胡子。穿的虽然是长衫,可是又脏又破,似乎十多年没有补,也没有洗。他对人说话,总是满口之乎者也,教人半懂不懂的。因为他姓孔,别人便从描红纸⑵上的“上大人孔乙己”这半懂不懂的话里,替他取下一个绰号,叫作孔乙己。孔乙己一到店,所有喝酒的人便都看着他笑,有的叫道,“孔乙己,你脸上又添上新伤疤了!”他不回答,对柜里说,“温两碗酒,要一碟茴香豆。”便排出九文大钱。他们又故意的高声嚷道,“你一定又偷了人家的东西了!”孔乙己睁大眼睛说,“你怎么这样凭空污人清白……”“什么清白?我前天亲眼见你偷了何家的书,吊着打。”孔乙己便涨红了脸,额上的青筋条条绽出,争辩道,“窃书不能算偷……窃书!……读书人的事,能算偷么?”接连便是难懂的话,什么“君子固穷”,什么“者乎”之类,引得众人都哄笑起来:店内外充满了快活的空气。

  听人家背地里谈论,孔乙己原来也读过书,但终于没有进学⑷,又不会营生;于是愈过愈穷,弄到将要讨饭了。幸而写得一笔好字,便替人家钞钞书,换一碗饭吃。可惜他又有一样坏脾气,便是好吃懒做。坐不到几天,便连人和书籍纸张笔砚,一齐失踪。如是几次,叫他钞书的人也没有了。孔乙己没有法,便免不了偶然做些偷窃的事。但他在我们店里,品行却比别人都好,就是从不拖欠;虽然间或没有现钱,暂时记在粉板上,但不出一月,定然还清,从粉板上拭去了孔乙己的名字。

  孔乙己喝过半碗酒,涨红的脸色渐渐复了原,旁人便又问道,“孔乙己,你当真认识字么?”孔乙己看着问他的人,显出不屑置辩的神气。他们便接着说道,“你怎的连半个秀才也捞不到呢?”孔乙己立刻显出颓唐不安模样,脸上笼上了一层灰色,嘴里说些话;这回可是全是之乎者也之类,一些不懂了。在这时候,众人也都哄笑起来:店内外充满了快活的空气。

  在这些时候,我可以附和着笑,掌柜是决不责备的。而且掌柜见了孔乙己,也每每这样问他,引人发笑。孔乙己自己知道不能和他们谈天,便只好向孩子说话。有一回对我说道,“你读过书么?”我略略点一点头。他说,“读过书,……我便考你一考。茴香豆的茴字,怎样写的?”我想,讨饭一样的人,也配考我么?便回过脸去,不再理会。孔乙己等了许久,很恳切的说道,“不能写罢?……我教给你,记着!这些字应该记着。将来做掌柜的时候,写账要用。”我暗想我和掌柜的等级还很远呢,而且我们掌柜也从不将茴香豆上账;又好笑,又不耐烦,懒懒的答他道,“谁要你教,不是草头底下一个来回的回字么?”孔乙己显出极高兴的样子,将两个指头的长指甲敲着柜台,点头说,“对呀对呀!……回字有四样写法,你知道么?”我愈不耐烦了,努着嘴走远。孔乙己刚用指甲蘸了酒,想在柜上写字,见我毫不热心,便又叹一口气,显出极惋惜的样子。

  有几回,邻居孩子听得笑声,也赶热闹,围住了孔乙己。他便给他*擒钕愣钩*,一人一颗。孩子吃完豆,仍然不散,眼睛都望着碟子。孔乙己着了慌,伸开五指将碟子罩住,弯腰下去说道,“不多了,我已经不多了。”直起身又看一看豆,自己摇头说,“不多不多!多乎哉?不多也。”于是这一群孩子都在笑声里走散了。

  孔乙己是这样的使人快活,可是没有他,别人也便这么过。

  有一天,大约是中秋前的两三天,掌柜正在慢慢的结账,取下粉板,忽然说,“孔乙己长久没有来了。还欠十九个钱呢!”我才也觉得他的确长久没有来了。一个喝酒的人说道,“他怎么会来?……他打折了腿了。”掌柜说,“哦!”“他总仍旧是偷。这一回,是自己发昏,竟偷到丁举人家里去了。他家的东西,偷得的么?”“后来怎么样?”“怎么样?先写服辩,后来是打,打了大半夜,再打折了腿。”“后来呢?”“后来打折了腿了。”“打折了怎样呢?”“怎样?……谁晓得?许是死了。”掌柜也不再问,仍然慢慢的算他的账。

  中秋之后,秋风是一天凉比一天,看看将近初冬;我整天的靠着火,也须穿上棉袄了。一天的下半天,没有一个顾客,我正合了眼坐着。忽然间听得一个声音,“温一碗酒。”这声音虽然极低,却很耳熟。看时又全没有人。站起来向外一望,那孔乙己便在柜台下对了门槛坐着。他脸上黑而且瘦,已经不成样子;穿一件破夹袄,盘着两腿,下面垫一个蒲包,用草绳在肩上挂住;见了我,又说道,“温一碗酒。”掌柜也伸出头去,一面说,“孔乙己么?你还欠十九个钱呢!”孔乙己很颓唐的仰面答道,“这……下回还清罢。这一回是现钱,酒要好。”掌柜仍然同平常一样,笑着对他说,“孔乙己,你又偷了东西了!”但他这回却不十分分辩,单说了一句“不要取笑!”“取笑?要是不偷,怎么会打断腿?”孔乙己低声说道,“跌断,跌,跌……”他的眼色,很像恳求掌柜,不要再提。此时已经聚集了几个人,便和掌柜都笑了。我温了酒,端出去,放在门槛上。他从破衣袋里摸出四文大钱,放在我手里,见他满手是泥,原来他便用这手走来的。不一会,他喝完酒,便又在旁人的说笑声中,坐着用这手慢慢走去了。

  自此以后,又长久没有看见孔乙己。到了年关,掌柜取下粉板说,“孔乙己还欠十九个钱呢!”到第二年的端午,又说“孔乙己还欠十九个钱呢!”到中秋可是没有说,再到年关也没有看见他。

  我到现在终于没有见——大约孔乙己的确死了。

从文中可反映当时社会的饮食文化

咸亨酒店
位置
浙江绍兴鲁迅中路179号

基本介绍
清光绪甲午年(公元1894年),鲁迅堂叔周仲翔等在绍兴城内的都昌坊口开设一家小酒店。店主从《易经.坤卦》之《彖传》“含弘广大,品物咸亨”句中,取“咸亨”两字为店名,寓意酒店生意兴隆,万事亨通。鲁迅先生在《孔乙己 》、《风波》和《明天》等著名小说中,把咸亨酒店作为重要背景,使咸亨酒店名扬海内外。
咸亨酒店坐落在鲁迅故家所在的绍兴城内东昌坊口的东头。“咸”是都的意思,“亨”为顺利,“咸亨”即为“大家都顺利”的祝福语。以此为店名,足见当家人对生意之兴旺的殷切期盼之情。《易经》语云:“坤厚载物,德合无疆,含弘光大,品物咸亨”。即指占卜之事,凡合于此卦者,无论物质,还是精神方面,都将顺利发展。所以唐朝的李治就用“咸亨”作为其年号之一。

咸亨酒店於清朝光緒二十年創建,但在幾年後結業。直到1981年,中國大陸為紀念魯迅誕辰100週年,將咸亨酒店重新開業。2007年11月,當地政府宣佈將把酒店改建成五星級的魯迅文化主題酒店。

咸亨酒店亦有推出黄酒,其中著名的是咸亨酒店-太雕酒
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现代的酒脚
从千禧年开始,改革现代化的绍兴酒厂如
会稽山,古越龙山,塔牌,女儿红等等品牌。
黄酒的发酵储存要么在几十吨的储存罐,要么在50斤陶土坛,酒脚在现代化设备的处理过滤减少了损耗,大大提升了产量,品质更加稳定,口感更加单一,超过保质期也可以饮用。
因为技术的进步,现代化处理,残渣越来越少。
要找有酒脚的绍兴酒,就要寻找一些依然用传统手工工艺酿做的绍兴酒

----

**"绍酒脚"** 是绍兴酒(Shaoxing wine)酿造过程中沉淀在酒坛底部的残渣,主要由发酵后的米粒、酵母和其他有机物质组成,质地湿润黏稠,带有浓郁的黄酒香气。在传统烹饪中(如杭州名菜“叫化童鸡”),它常被用来混合泥土包裹食材,高温煨烤时,酒脚受热挥发的酒香会渗透到食材中,起到去腥增香、赋予独特风味的作用

### **常见用途**
1. **包裹食材**(如叫化鸡):混合泥土后密封烘烤,锁住香气。
2. **腌制调味**:少量添加于酱汁或腌料,增强醇厚风味。
3. **替代方案**:若无法获取,可用 **普通黄酒 + 少量糯米粉** 模拟黏稠质地和酒香。

### **示例用法(参考叫化童鸡菜谱)**
> "将酒坛泥砸碎,加入绍酒沉渣(Shaoxing wine lees)、粗盐和水捣韧,裹住鸡身煨烤。"



---

### **一、酒脚的形成原因**
1. **发酵残留**:
- 酵母在完成酒精发酵后逐渐死亡并沉淀,与酒液中的蛋白质、淀粉结合形成絮状物。
2. **蛋白质凝聚**:
- 酒液中的蛋白质在低温或长期静置下发生变性,聚集成絮状沉淀。
3. **陈酿析出**:
- 绍兴酒陈放过程中,酒体内部成分逐渐稳定,部分物质(如焦糖色素、酚类)缓慢析出。

---

### **二、酒脚的特性与作用**
1. **成分特性**:
- 含少量活性酵母、氨基酸、多肽等营养物质,但口感粗糙,直接饮用可能带苦味。
2. **对酒体的影响**:
- **正面**:微量酒脚可赋予酒液更复杂的风味(需专业控制)。
- **负面**:过量酒脚可能导致酒液浑浊,影响观感和口感。
3. **传统工艺中的处理**:
- 绍兴酒压榨后通过“煎酒”(高温灭菌)促进酒脚沉淀,再经多次换坛陈酿,逐步分离酒脚,使酒体清澈。

---

### **三、家庭自酿如何处理酒脚**
1. **自然沉淀法**:
- 发酵完成后静置7-10天,待酒脚沉底后,用虹吸管抽取上层清液,避免搅动沉淀。
2. **过滤澄清**:
- 用多层纱布或咖啡滤纸过滤酒液,可重复2-3次提高清澈度。
- 添加澄清剂(如蛋清、膨润土)吸附杂质(需谨慎控制用量)。
3. **煎酒杀菌**:
- 将酒液加热至80℃维持15分钟,促进酒脚凝结沉淀,冷却后再次过滤。

---

### **四、酒脚的再利用方式**
1. **烹饪提鲜**:
- 酒脚含丰富氨基酸,可替代料酒用于红烧肉、卤味等菜肴,增添鲜味。
2. **二次发酵**:
- 将酒脚加入新酿米酒中作为“酒母”,加速发酵(需注意杂菌污染风险)。
3. **堆肥原料**:
- 酒脚富含有机质,可与厨余混合堆肥,用于家庭种植。

---

### **五、常见问题与解答**
1. **酒脚是否影响健康?**
- 无害,但口感不佳,建议饮用前去除沉淀。
2. **市售绍兴酒为何无酒脚?**
- 工业化生产通过离心、超滤等工艺去除酒脚,瓶装酒通常清澈稳定。
3. **陈年绍兴酒为何有沉淀?**
- 老酒长期存放可能析出少量结晶(酪氨酸、焦糖等),属正常现象,摇匀后饮用即可。

---

### **六、专业建议**
- **自酿注意**:家庭酿酒需严格消毒,酒脚过多可能预示发酵异常(如感染杂菌)。
- **饮用技巧**:开封后瓶底有微量沉淀属正常,倒酒时轻缓避免搅浑。
- **文化小知识**:绍兴民间认为酒脚象征“福根”,旧时宴席最后一杯酒需留底以示敬意。


站內連結:
叫化童鸡 Beggar’s Chicken (Hangzhou Baked Chicken)

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The Dregs of Shaoxing Wine
"The dregs of old Shaoxing wine". The word "dregs" is a local dialect in Shaoxing, China, which means sediment. The main reason is that Shaoxing yellow rice wine is brewed from glutinous rice, wheat and the water of Jianhu Lake. It contains a large amount of small molecular proteins. These small molecular proteins will coagulate and precipitate during the storage process, and they are not harmful to the human body at all.

In the 1980s, how were the dregs of Shaoxing wine dealt with?
The grain management stations, supply and marketing cooperatives, small wine shops, and the yellow rice wine brewed and sold privately all had dregs left.
Some filtered the wine with a silk ribbon and sold it directly.
Some sold it directly without using a silk ribbon.
It was about 2 mao per jin.
In the era of material scarcity,
People with a craving for alcohol but reluctant to buy the upper or middle layers of the wine,
Could only buy the low-priced residual wine, the so-called bottom wine,
The turbid dregs of the wine~

Both Drunk and Full
When buying the dregs of wine at the counter of a small wine shop, the wine people got was filtered repeatedly with a silk ribbon. There was almost only residue left and no more wine liquid. People bought it home at a low price, mixed it with flour and water, and made wine-flavored steamed buns. In this way, they could be full and also taste the flavor of wine. So there is a folk saying: both drunk and full.

Counter Wine
In the old days and during the era of material shortage, there was a common custom of drinking wine while standing by the counter of a wine shop. It was a sales and consumption mode that integrated the buying, selling and drinking of wine. This custom was generally a consumption form of the lower-class or ordinary people at that time.
A bowl of wine dregs and a plate of dried broad beans, people stood and ate and drank, just like Kong Yiji in Lu Xun's short story.

Kong Yiji is a short story written by Lu Xun, a great master of modern literature. It was first published in the fourth issue of the sixth volume of New Youth in April 1919, and later included in Call to Arms. It is Lu Xun's second vernacular short story after A Madman's Diary on the eve of the May 4th Movement.

The novel depicts the tragic image of Kong Yiji, who was poisoned by feudal and decadent ideas and the imperial examination system. He was pedantic and numb in spirit, lazy and poor in life. He wasted his days amidst people's mockery and was finally swallowed up by the feudal landlord class. Although the novel is not long, it deeply exposes the毒害 of the imperial examination system to the spirit of intellectuals at that time and the cannibalistic nature of the feudal system, and has a strong anti-feudal significance.

Kong Yiji is a classic short story written by Mr. Lu Xun. Since 1922, it has been included in Chinese textbooks of different periods as a model of novels. In 1986, it was determined as a basic text in middle school Chinese textbooks and occupies an important position.

The following is the original text of Lu Xun's short story Kong Yiji:
The layout of the taverns in Luzhen was different from that elsewhere: all of them had a large, carpenter's-square-shaped counter facing the street, and hot water was prepared inside the counter so that wine could be warmed at any time. When the laboring men finished work at midday or towards evening, they would often spend four coppers on a bowl of wine - that was something over twenty years ago, now a bowl costs ten coppers - and stand outside the counter, drinking it warm and resting. If they spent an extra copper, they could buy a plate of salted bamboo shoots or fennel beans to go with their wine, and for a dozen coppers or so they could have a meat dish. But most of these customers were short-coated laborers, few of whom could afford this. Only those in long gowns would saunter into the adjoining room to order wine and dishes and sit and drink at leisure.

When I was twelve, I started work as a waiter in Xianheng Tavern at the entrance to the town. The tavern keeper said I looked too stupid to serve the long-gowned customers, so I was to work outside. Although the short-coated customers were more easily spoken to, there were quite a few of them who were noisy and hard to deal with. Often they would insist on watching with their own eyes as the yellow wine was ladled from the keg, inspect the bottom of the wine pot to make sure there was no water in it, and then watch again as it was put in the hot water. Only then were they reassured. Under such strict supervision it was difficult to adulterate the wine with water. So after a few days the tavern keeper decided I was not equal to the job. Fortunately, the man who had recommended me had influence, and the tavern keeper could not very well dismiss me, so I was transferred to the dull duty of warming wine.

After that I stood all day behind the counter, fully engaged with my duties. Although I gave no cause for complaint, I found the work monotonous and dull. Our tavern keeper was a fierce-looking individual, and the customers were a morose lot, so that it was impossible to be gay. Only when Kong Yiji came to the tavern could I get some laughs. That is why I still remember him.

Kong Yiji was the only person to drink wine standing up who wore a long gown. He was a big man, pale of face, his wrinkles often marked with scars. He had a large, unkempt beard streaked with white. Although he wore a long gown, it was dirty and tattered, and looked as if it had not been washed or mended for over ten years. He used archaisms when he spoke to others, which made it hard for people to understand him. Because his surname was Kong, others used the half-understood line from children's copybooks, "A worthy man, Master Kong," to give him the nickname Kong Yiji. As soon as he came into the shop, everyone would look at him and laugh. Some would call out, "Kong Yiji, there are some new scars on your face!" Without replying, he would say to the man behind the counter, "Warm two bowls of wine. And get me a plate of fennel beans." Then he would lay out nine coppers. At this they would deliberately raise their voices and shout, "You must have been stealing again!" Opening his eyes wide, Kong Yiji would say, "How can you smear a man's good name groundlessly..." "Good name? The day before yesterday I saw you with my own eyes stealing books from the He family and hanging there being beaten." Then Kong Yiji would flush, the veins on his forehead standing out as he remonstrated, "Taking books can't be counted as stealing... Taking books... For a scholar, can that be counted as stealing?" Then he would reel off a string of archaic expressions until everybody was roaring with laughter. The tavern and the street outside were filled with a lively atmosphere.

From what others said of him, I gathered that Kong Yiji had studied the classics but never passed the official examinations, and that he could do no useful work. So he had grown steadily poorer, until he was almost reduced to begging. Fortunately, he had a good hand with a brush, and so could copy books for others and make a living that way. But unfortunately he had one bad habit, he was lazy and fond of drinking. After only a few days in a job he would disappear, taking with him books, paper, inkstone and writing brush. After this happened several times, there was no one left to ask him to copy books. And so, inevitably, he sometimes took to petty theft. But he was more honest than others in our tavern, and would never fail to pay up; even if he did run short of ready cash and have his account entered on the board, he would settle up before the end of the month and his name would be wiped off the board again.

After drinking half a bowl of wine, Kong Yiji's flushed face would gradually regain its normal color, and then someone would ask, "Kong Yiji, can you really read?" Looking at his questioner, Kong Yiji would show an air of scornful disdain. Then they would go on, "How is it you never even managed to get the rank of licentiate?" At once Kong Yiji would look dejected and ill at ease, a layer of sadness coming over his face, and he would mumble some archaic expressions, all unintelligible to us. At such times everyone would laugh heartily again, and the tavern and the street outside would be filled with a lively atmosphere.

At such times I could join in the laughter without being scolded by the tavern keeper. In fact, he often questioned Kong Yiji in this way himself to create a laugh. Knowing that he could not chat with them, Kong Yiji would turn to the children. Once he asked me, "Have you studied?" I nodded slightly. "If you have studied," he said, "I'll test you. How do you write the character for 'fennel' in 'fennel beans'?" I thought, a wretch like him trying to test me? So I turned my back on him and ignored him. After waiting for some time, Kong Yiji said earnestly, "You can't write it? Well, I'll teach you. Remember! You should remember these characters. When you're the tavern keeper in the future, you'll need them for keeping accounts." I thought there was still a long way to go before I became a tavern keeper, and besides, our tavern keeper never included fennel beans in the accounts. It was both funny and irritating, so I answered listlessly, "Who wants you to teach me? Isn't it the character 'hui' with the grass radical on top?" Kong Yiji looked delighted, and tapped the counter with the long fingernails of his two fingers, nodding. "Right, right! ... There are four ways of writing the character 'hui'. Do you know that?" I was growing more and more impatient, and pursing my lips, walked away. Kong Yiji had just dipped his fingernail in some wine and was about to write on the counter. When he saw how indifferent I was, he sighed and looked deeply disappointed.

Several times, when the neighbor children heard the laughter, they came over to join in the fun and surrounded Kong Yiji. Then he would give them fennel beans, one apiece. After eating the beans the children still hung around, their eyes fixed on the dish. Growing flustered, Kong Yiji would cover the dish with his outstretched hand and bending over he would say, "There aren't many left. I haven't many left myself." Then standing up to look at the beans again, he would shake his head. "Not many, not many! Are there many? There are not." And then the children would scamper off, laughing.

Kong Yiji was such a figure as to provide food for laughter, but life went on much the same without him.

One day, some two or three days before the Mid-Autumn Festival perhaps, as the tavern keeper was slowly settling his accounts and taking down the board, he suddenly said, "Kong Yiji hasn't been here for a long time. He still owes nineteen coppers!" Only then did I realize that he really had been away for a long time. One of the customers said, "How could he come? ... His legs were broken." "Oh!" said the tavern keeper. "He was stealing again. This time he was crazy enough to steal from the house of Mr. Ding. Can you steal from his house?" "What happened then?" "What happened? First he had to write a statement of his offense, and then he was beaten. The beating lasted nearly half the night, and in the end they broke his legs." "And then?" "Well, his legs were broken, so he couldn't come, of course." "What about afterwards?" "Afterwards? ... Who knows? Maybe he's dead." The tavern keeper did not pursue the question, but went on slowly with his accounts.

After the Mid-Autumn Festival the wind grew colder every day, as winter came on. Even though I spent all day by the stove, I had to wear my padded jacket. One afternoon, when there were no customers, I closed my eyes and dozed off. Suddenly I heard a voice, "Warm a bowl of wine." Although it was very low, it was familiar. I looked up, but there was no one in sight. Standing up and looking outside, I saw Kong Yiji sitting on the ground below the counter by the threshold. His face was dark and thin, and he looked completely different. He was wearing a tattered lined jacket and had his legs tied together; he had a mat under him, which was attached to his shoulders by a straw rope. When he saw me, he repeated, "Warm a bowl of wine." The tavern keeper also poked his head out, and said, "Kong Yiji? You still owe nineteen coppers!" Looking up dejectedly, Kong Yiji replied, "Yes... I'll pay it back next time. This time I have ready money. The wine must be good." The tavern keeper, as usual, laughed at him and said, "Kong Yiji, you've been stealing again!" But this time he made no great effort to defend himself, merely saying, "Don't make fun of me!" "Make fun of you? If you hadn't stolen, why would they have broken your legs?" In a low voice Kong Yiji said, "I fell and broke them. Fell, broke them..." His eyes pleaded with the tavern keeper to let the matter drop. By now several people had gathered round, and they and the tavern keeper all laughed. I warmed the wine, carried it out and set it on the threshold. He fished four coppers out of his ragged pocket and placed them in my hand. I saw that his hands were covered with mud. Evidently he had crawled there on his hands. Soon after drinking the wine, he dragged himself off, using his hands, while the others' mocking laughter rang in his ears.

After that I did not see Kong Yiji for a long time. When the year's end came, the tavern keeper took down the board and said, "Kong Yiji still owes nineteen coppers!" At the Dragon Boat Festival the next year he said the same thing again. But at the Mid-Autumn Festival he did not mention it, and I did not see Kong Yiji again that year.

I have never seen him since - probably Kong Yiji really is dead.

From the text, we can reflect the food and drink culture of that time.

Xianheng Tavern
Location: No. 179, Luxun Middle Road, Shaoxing, Zhejiang

Basic Introduction
In the Jiashen year of the Guangxu reign in the Qing Dynasty (1894 AD), Zhou Zhongxiang, a distant uncle of Lu Xun, and others opened a small tavern at Duchangfangkou in Shaoxing City. The owner took the two characters "Xianheng" from the sentence "Containing all things, vast and great, all things thrive" in the Tuanzhuan of the Kun Hexagram in the Book of Changes, implying that the business of the tavern would be prosperous and everything would go smoothly. Mr. Lu Xun took Xianheng Tavern as an important background in his famous novels such as Kong Yiji, The Storm and Tomorrow, making Xianheng Tavern famous both at home and abroad.
Xianheng Tavern is located at the east end of Dongchangfangkou in Shaoxing City, where Lu Xun's former residence is. "Xian" means "all", and "heng" means "smooth". "Xianheng" is a blessing phrase meaning "everyone is smooth". Taking this as the name of the tavern fully shows the owner's eager expectation for the prosperity of the business. The Book of Changes says, "The Earth is thick and can carry all things. Its virtue is boundless. It contains all things, is vast and great, and all things thrive." That is to say, for divination matters, for those who conform to this hexagram, both materially and spiritually, they will develop smoothly. That's why Li Zhi of the Tang Dynasty used "Xianheng" as one of his reign titles.

Xianheng Tavern was founded in the 20th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty, but closed down a few years later. It was not until 1981, in commemoration of the 100th anniversary of Lu Xun's birth on the Chinese mainland, that Xianheng Tavern reopened. In November 2007, the local government announced that the tavern would be transformed into a five-star Lu Xun cultural theme hotel.

Xianheng Tavern also launches yellow rice wine, among which the famous one is Taidiao wine of Xianheng Tavern.
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 The Dregs of Modern Wine
Since the turn of the millennium, modernized and reformed Shaoxing wineries, such as brands like Kuaijishan, Guyuelongshan, Tapai, Nu'erhong, etc.
The fermentation and storage of yellow rice wine are either in storage tanks of dozens of tons or in 50-jin clay jars. The treatment and filtration by modern equipment for the wine dregs have reduced the losses, greatly increased the output, made the quality more stable, the taste more uniform, and the wine can still be consumed even after the expiration date.
Thanks to the technological progress and modern processing, the residues are getting fewer and fewer.
If you want to find Shaoxing wine with dregs, you need to look for some Shaoxing wine that is still brewed with traditional handicraft techniques.

 

"Shaoxing Wine Dregs" are the residues that settle at the bottom of the wine jars during the brewing process of Shaoxing wine. They are mainly composed of fermented rice grains, yeast, and other organic substances. They are moist and sticky in texture and have a rich aroma of yellow rice wine. In traditional cooking (such as the famous Hangzhou dish "Beggar's Chicken"), it is often used to mix with clay to wrap the ingredients. When roasted at a high temperature, the aroma of the wine dregs will penetrate into the ingredients when heated and volatilized, playing the role of removing fishy smell, enhancing aroma, and giving a unique flavor.

Common Uses

Wrapping Ingredients (such as Beggar's Chicken): Mix with clay and seal for roasting to lock in the aroma.
Pickling and Seasoning: Add a small amount to sauces or marinades to enhance the mellow flavor.
Alternative Solution: If it cannot be obtained, you can use ordinary yellow rice wine + a small amount of glutinous rice flour to simulate the viscous texture and the aroma of the wine.

Example of Usage (Refer to the Recipe of Beggar's Chicken)

"Smash the wine jar clay, add the residues of Shaoxing wine (Shaoxing wine lees), coarse salt, and water, and knead them until tough. Wrap the chicken with it and roast it slowly."

 

I. Reasons for the Formation of Wine Dregs

Fermentation Residue:

- After completing the alcoholic fermentation, the yeast gradually dies and precipitates, combining with the proteins and starches in the wine to form flocculent substances.

Protein Coagulation:

- The proteins in the wine denature under low temperature or long-term standing, aggregating into flocculent precipitates.

Precipitation during Aging:

- During the aging process of Shaoxing wine, the internal components of the wine gradually stabilize, and some substances (such as caramel pigments and phenols) slowly precipitate.

 

II. Characteristics and Functions of Wine Dregs

Composition Characteristics:

- Contain a small amount of nutrients such as active yeast, amino acids, and polypeptides, but have a rough taste and may be bitter if consumed directly.

Impact on the Wine Body:

- Positive: A small amount of wine dregs can endow the wine with a more complex flavor (professional control is required).
- Negative: Excessive wine dregs may cause the wine to be turbid, affecting its appearance and taste.

Treatment in Traditional Techniques:

- After pressing Shaoxing wine, "frying the wine" (high-temperature sterilization) is carried out to promote the precipitation of wine dregs. Then, through multiple times of changing jars for aging, the wine dregs are gradually separated to make the wine body clear.

 

III. How to Deal with Wine Dregs in Home Brewing

Natural Precipitation Method:

- After the fermentation is completed, let it stand for 7-10 days. After the wine dregs sink to the bottom, use a siphon to draw out the upper clear liquid, avoiding stirring up the precipitates.

Filtration and Clarification:

- Filter the wine with multiple layers of gauze or coffee filter paper, and it can be repeated 2-3 times to improve the clarity.
- Add clarifying agents (such as egg white, bentonite) to adsorb impurities (the dosage needs to be carefully controlled).

Frying Wine for Sterilization:

- Heat the wine to 80°C and maintain it for 15 minutes to promote the coagulation and precipitation of the wine dregs. After cooling, filter it again.

 

IV. Ways of Reusing Wine Dregs

Enhancing Freshness in Cooking:

- Wine dregs are rich in amino acids and can replace cooking wine in dishes such as braised pork and marinated foods to add a fresh taste.

Secondary Fermentation:

- Add the wine dregs to newly brewed rice wine as the "wine mother" to accelerate the fermentation (the risk of contamination by miscellaneous bacteria needs to be noted).

Composting Raw Material:

- Wine dregs are rich in organic matter and can be mixed with kitchen waste for composting, which can be used for home gardening.

 

V. Common Questions and Answers

Does Wine Dregs Affect Health?

- It is harmless, but the taste is not good. It is recommended to remove the sediment before drinking.

Why Is There No Wine Dregs in Commercially Sold Shaoxing Wine?

- In industrial production, processes such as centrifugation and ultrafiltration are used to remove the wine dregs, and bottled wine is usually clear and stable.

Why Are There Precipitates in Aged Shaoxing Wine?

- A small amount of crystals (such as tyrosine, caramel, etc.) may precipitate during the long-term storage of aged wine, which is a normal phenomenon. Just shake it well before drinking.

 

VI. Professional Suggestions

- Matters Needing Attention in Home Brewing: Strict disinfection is required for home brewing. Excessive wine dregs may indicate abnormal fermentation (such as contamination by miscellaneous bacteria).
- Drinking Skills: It is normal to have a small amount of sediment at the bottom of the bottle after opening. Pour the wine slowly to avoid stirring it up.
- Cultural Knowledge: In Shaoxing folk, wine dregs are regarded as a symbol of "the root of good fortune". In the past, the last cup of wine at a banquet needed to be left at the bottom as a sign of respect.

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叫化童鸡 Beggar’s Chicken (Hangzhou Baked Chicken)
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