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广东（梅州、惠州）的特色传统名菜
梅菜，是一种常见的客家美食，用萝卜叶腌制发酵而成。主要产地是在梅州地区、惠州地区，相传为梅仙姑送的菜种，故叫梅菜，是广东（梅州、惠州）的特色传统名菜，属于腌制食品。梅菜历史悠久，闻名中外，是岭南三大名菜之一，为岭南著名传统特产，是客家饮食文化的重要组成部分之一。
梅菜又名富贵菜，有着一千多年种植历史的梅菜曾被历代皇朝列为宫廷贡品而被称为“惠州贡菜”。有古诗描述称：“苎萝西子十里绿，惠州梅菜一枝花”，而惠州被国务院授予“中国梅菜之乡”的称号。惠州梅菜承载着惠州客家文化故事，获国家“农产品地理标志”产品标志等称号。
梅菜食法多样，是佐餐和配料烹调的美味食品。乡间民用新鲜的梅菜经晾晒、精选、飘盐等多道工序制成，色泽金黄、香气扑鼻，清甜爽口，不寒、不燥、不湿、不热，有增强消化，清热解暑，消滞健胃，降脂降压的功效。
梅菜不仅可独成一味菜，还可以当作配料制成梅菜扣肉、梅菜蒸猪肉、 梅菜蒸牛肉、梅菜蒸鲜鱼、梅菜蒸鱼、梅菜焖鸭、梅菜蒸排骨、梅菜猪肉汤、梅菜汤等菜肴
历史由来
梅菜是梅州地区、惠州地区土生土长的著名特产，有着360多年的种植制作历史。相传为梅仙姑送的菜种，故叫梅菜。（萝卜叶腌制的菜）
岭南大地，莽莽苍苍，高山矮岭，绵延起伏，土质肥沃。明末农民起义，兵荒马乱，大批中原客籍人士为避战乱纷纷举家南迁。梅州地区北面四十里处群山环抱之中有一块方圆十里的平坦土地，迎来了潘刘卢余等一行人，各自选定地域开基立业，垦殖生息，卢公原为书香门第出身，曾当过地方小吏，因不满朝政腐败，也携妻儿随南迁人群定居于此。此地开阔平坦，小溪流水穿越其中，为跨溪过水而筑简易木桥，后来定村名为“土桥”。
卢夫人何氏出身于名门，知书达理，为人善良，但不擅农事。卢夫人生有五子，年尚幼，嗷嗷待哺，战乱奔波，积蓄花销殆尽，仅凭夫君一人耕作，日子半饥半饱。一日她在河边洗衣，孩儿们饥肠漉漉，哇哇地哭着要吃饭，夫人不禁心酸，凄楚泪珠滚落河中。一阵清风，飘来彩云一朵，见一姑娘立于眼前，慈眉善目，仙风道骨。姑娘上前抚慰她道：“夫人休得伤心，善心人自有皇天护佑，今我百年修炼、育有菜种一包，是广济苍生之物，你等将菜种播下，春节前可收获届时神州多一物，孩儿可得温饱矣！”言毕仙姑即抽身前行，卢夫人急急拜谢，问姑娘姓甚名谁，日后好生报答，姑娘笑答：“广济苍生，何劳报答，姓梅是也。”随即腾云而去。
卢夫人选定秋分时节在菜园中将种籽播下，不几天即出现绿油、齐刷刷的菜苗，极为茁壮，该移栽时正逢秋收后，有大片稻田可供移植，于是，夫妇连日整地移栽，一连几天共种上一亩多地。经浇水施肥，转眼又是腊月，正值收获季节，菜长得又大又肥，一颗重几斤，采来煮食，鲜甜嫩滑，分外可口，孩子们饱食一顿，喜欢得直蹦跳。一餐一颗，连食数日，菜已成熟抽芯开花，于是叫左邻右舍都采采用，你一筐他一筐，仍剩下一片未及采收，眼见再不采收即会老化，浪费了真可惜。正愁着怎么办，卢夫人忽然想起腊猪肉，眼前一亮：猪肉可以腌腊，菜不是也可腌吗？她试着将菜砍下晒干，用陶器（缸）加盐腌制，咦！顶好，为了去掉水份，晒干贮藏，她到山上采来一种叫黄毛婆的柔软净草作辅垫，密封堆藏。经过晒藏，菜干肉质呈桂园肉油亮形状，金黄腊色，香气四溢。春节期间，亲朋好友相互走访，宴客时取出梅菜与猪肉同煮，鲜甜可口，别有一番风味。亲朋好友问及此乃何物，卢夫人道，是梅仙姑送的菜种，就叫“梅菜”吧。此后经亲朋好友引种，很快在梅江、东江流域一带传开，广为种植，梅州、惠州从此便有了梅菜。
典故记载
梅菜是主要盛产于惠州，以客家人种植为主，又称为“惠州贡菜”。[9] 在惠州以矮陂为中心的乡镇，梅菜种植面积已达6万多亩，年产量超过10万吨，全镇现有梅菜种植面积1.4万亩，总产可达2.2万吨，菜收入占农业总产值的45%，成为该镇的支柱产业，1995年惠阳市获全国首批百家特产之乡——“中国梅菜之乡”称号。
据华南农业大学化验中心测定：梅菜含糖5.7%、蛋白质5.6%、并含有多种维生素、17种氨基酸及锌、镁、钾等7种人体所需的微量元素，具有消滞健胃、隆脂、降压等保健功效，并获美国食口管理局认可，被定为“天然健康食品”。
据惠阳志记载，明朝下叶开始生产制作梅菜，距今有四百年历史。它是岭南特产，上京朝贡，为宫廷食品，又称“贡菜”，至今北京各饭店仍保留“梅菜扣肉”粤菜食谱。
梅菜的生产季节是冬季，一般在收晚稻前播种培育，菜苗大约一个月，收完晚稻即栽种。人们大都选择在水利条件好，能自动灌溉的稻田种梅菜，从种植开始，头一星期每天要浇水，第二星期开始，可两天浇一次，相隔一段要施肥，梅菜生长期约80天，待菜芯长至10至15公分便可收获。收获时先将地里的菜砍倒仰晒一天，然后用刀将整棵菜开成菜芯突出、一片一片连成一体的形状。再晒一天，接着把菜放进水泥池内，放一层菜加一层盐，用脚踩实，并用大石块压住，3天后便可取出晒到草地或晒谷坪，每天早上晒，晚上收，中途还要加点盐，晒至七成干，呈金黄色就可以食用了。
梅菜有三种：菜芯、菜片和粗叶，味道清甜爽脆。其中菜芯以芯嫩，色黄，味香为上品，它不但可以做菜，同时又有消暑解热之功效。因此，在炎热的暑天或蔬菜青黄不接的季节，人们特别喜爱用梅菜做膳食的佳品。
梅菜做法最有名的是梅菜扣肉。
梅菜的具体诞生，可能一时还没法说清，有人用神传说来表明梅菜的诞生更是无稽之谈，梅菜的具体产生，还有待考证。梅菜已有1000多年的历史，梅菜、梅菜扣肉可尝试申报世界历史文化遗产，从而能更好地提升惠州梅菜品牌在世界的知名度。
资料来源：百度百科
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A characteristic traditional famous dish in Guangdong (Meizhou, Huizhou)
Preserved mustard greens is a common Hakka delicacy, which is pickled and fermented from radish leaves. The main producing areas are in the Meizhou area and Huizhou area. According to legend, it was the vegetable seed given by the Fairy Mei, so it is called preserved mustard greens. It is a characteristic traditional famous dish in Guangdong (Meizhou, Huizhou) and belongs to pickled food. With a long history and well-known at home and abroad, preserved mustard greens is one of the three famous dishes in Lingnan, a well-known traditional specialty in Lingnan, and an important part of Hakka food culture.
Preserved mustard greens is also known as the "Rich Vegetable". With a planting history of more than a thousand years, preserved mustard greens was once listed as a tribute to the imperial court by successive dynasties and was called "Huizhou Tribute Vegetable". There is an ancient poem that describes: "The green scenery of Xishi in Zhuoluo extends for miles, and the preserved mustard greens in Huizhou stands out like a flower." And Huizhou was awarded the title of "Hometown of Preserved Mustard Greens in China" by the State Council. Huizhou preserved mustard greens carries the cultural stories of the Hakka people in Huizhou and has won titles such as the national "Agricultural Product Geographical Indication" product logo.
There are various ways to eat preserved mustard greens, which is a delicious food for accompanying meals and cooking as an ingredient. In the countryside, fresh preserved mustard greens are made through several processes such as sun-drying, careful selection, and salting. It has a golden color, a fragrant smell, a sweet and refreshing taste. It is neither cold, dry, wet nor hot. It has the effects of enhancing digestion, clearing heat and relieving summer heat, relieving indigestion and strengthening the stomach, reducing fat and lowering blood pressure.
Preserved mustard greens can not only be made into a single dish, but also used as an ingredient to make dishes such as Braised Pork with Preserved Mustard Greens, Steamed Pork with Preserved Mustard Greens, Steamed Beef with Preserved Mustard Greens, Steamed Fresh Fish with Preserved Mustard Greens, Steamed Fish with Preserved Mustard Greens, Braised Duck with Preserved Mustard Greens, Steamed Spare Ribs with Preserved Mustard Greens, Pork Soup with Preserved Mustard Greens, and Soup with Preserved Mustard Greens.
Historical Origin
Preserved mustard greens is a well-known local specialty in the Meizhou area and Huizhou area, with a planting and production history of more than 360 years. According to legend, it was the vegetable seed given by the Fairy Mei, so it is called preserved mustard greens. (The pickled dish made from radish leaves)
The land of Lingnan is vast and lush, with towering mountains and rolling hills, and fertile soil. During the peasant uprising at the end of the Ming Dynasty, there was chaos caused by war. A large number of people from the Central Plains of the Hakka ethnic group fled southward with their families to avoid the war. There was a flat land covering an area of about ten square li surrounded by mountains, forty li north of the Meizhou area. People such as Pan, Liu, Lu, and Yu came here and each selected a region to establish their homes, cultivate the land and live. Mr. Lu was originally from a scholarly family and once served as a local minor official. Due to his dissatisfaction with the corruption of the imperial court, he also settled here with his wife and children following the southward migration. This place was open and flat, with a small stream flowing through it. A simple wooden bridge was built to cross the stream, and later the village was named "Tuqiao" (literally "Earth Bridge").
Mrs. Lu, née He, was from a prominent family, knowledgeable and reasonable, and kind-hearted, but not good at farming. Mrs. Lu had five sons, all of whom were still young and crying for food. After the war and long journey, all their savings were exhausted. Relying only on her husband's farming, the family lived a life of semi-starvation. One day, when she was washing clothes by the river, the children were hungry and crying for food. The lady couldn't help but feel sad, and her sad tears fell into the river. A gentle breeze blew, and a colorful cloud floated over. She saw a girl standing in front of her, with a kind face and an otherworldly bearing. The girl stepped forward to comfort her and said, "Madam, don't be sad. Kind-hearted people will surely be protected by heaven. I have cultivated for a hundred years and have a packet of vegetable seeds. It is something to benefit the common people. You plant these seeds, and you can harvest them before the Spring Festival. At that time, there will be one more thing in the world, and your children can have enough to eat!" After saying that, the fairy was about to leave. Mrs. Lu quickly thanked her and asked the girl her name so that she could repay her in the future. The girl smiled and replied, "I am here to benefit the common people. There is no need for repayment. My surname is Mei." Then she rose into the clouds and left.
Mrs. Lu chose the Autumnal Equinox to sow the seeds in the vegetable garden. In a few days, green and neatly growing vegetable seedlings appeared, which were extremely robust. When it was time to transplant, it happened to be after the autumn harvest, and there were large areas of paddy fields available for transplantation. So, the couple worked for several consecutive days to prepare the land and transplant the seedlings. In a few days, they planted more than one mu of land. After watering and fertilizing, in the blink of an eye, it was the twelfth lunar month, the harvest season. The vegetables grew big and fat, weighing several catties each. When picked and cooked, they were sweet, tender and delicious. The children had a full meal and jumped up and down with joy. They ate one vegetable per meal for several consecutive days. When the vegetables were ripe, they sprouted and bloomed. So, she asked the neighbors to come and pick them. Everyone took a basket or two, but there was still a patch left unharvested. Seeing that if they didn't harvest it soon, it would age, which would be a pity. Just when she was worrying about what to do, Mrs. Lu suddenly thought of cured pork. Her eyes lit up: Since pork can be cured, can't vegetables also be pickled? She tried to cut down the vegetables and dry them in the sun, and then pickled them with salt in a pottery jar. Hey! It was very good. In order to remove the moisture and dry and store them, she went to the mountain to pick a kind of soft and clean grass called "Huangmaopo" as a cushion and sealed and piled them up for storage. After sun-drying and storage, the dried vegetable meat was in the shape of shiny longan pulp, golden yellow in color, and full of fragrance. During the Spring Festival, relatives and friends visited each other. When entertaining guests, the preserved mustard greens were taken out and cooked with pork, which was sweet and delicious and had a unique flavor. When relatives and friends asked what it was, Mrs. Lu said that it was the vegetable seed given by the Fairy Mei and it was called "preserved mustard greens". After that, through the introduction of relatives and friends, it quickly spread in the areas along the Meijiang River and Dongjiang River and was widely planted. Since then, there has been preserved mustard greens in Meizhou and Huizhou.
Historical Records
Preserved mustard greens is mainly produced in Huizhou, and it is mainly planted by the Hakka people. It is also known as "Huizhou Tribute Vegetable". [9] In the towns and townships centered around Aipo in Huizhou, the planting area of preserved mustard greens has reached more than 60,000 mu, and the annual output is more than 100,000 tons. The current planting area of preserved mustard greens in the whole town is 14,000 mu, and the total output can reach 22,000 tons. The income from the vegetables accounts for 45% of the total agricultural output value, becoming the pillar industry of the town. In 1995, Huiyang City was awarded the title of "Hometown of Preserved Mustard Greens in China" among the first batch of 100 characteristic product hometowns in the country.
According to the determination of the Testing Center of South China Agricultural University: Preserved mustard greens contains 5.7% sugar, 5.6% protein, and also contains a variety of vitamins, 17 kinds of amino acids, and 7 kinds of trace elements needed by the human body such as zinc, magnesium, and potassium. It has health care functions such as relieving indigestion and strengthening the stomach, reducing fat, and lowering blood pressure. It has been recognized by the US Food Administration and has been designated as a "Natural Health Food".
According to the records in the Huiyang Annals, the production and making of preserved mustard greens began in the late Ming Dynasty, with a history of 400 years. It is a specialty of Lingnan, and it was presented as a tribute to the imperial court in Beijing and was a court food, also known as "Tribute Vegetable". So far, the Cantonese cuisine recipe of "Braised Pork with Preserved Mustard Greens" is still retained in various restaurants in Beijing.
The production season of preserved mustard greens is winter. Generally, it is sown and cultivated before the late rice harvest. The vegetable seedlings take about a month, and it is planted immediately after the late rice harvest. People mostly choose to plant preserved mustard greens in paddy fields with good water conservancy conditions and automatic irrigation. From the beginning of planting, it needs to be watered every day for the first week. Starting from the second week, it can be watered once every two days, and fertilization is needed at intervals. The growth period of preserved mustard greens is about 80 days. When the vegetable core grows to 10 to 15 centimeters, it can be harvested. When harvesting, first cut down the vegetables in the field and let them lie in the sun for one day. Then use a knife to cut the whole vegetable into a shape where the vegetable core protrudes and the slices are connected together. After sun-drying for another day, put the vegetables into a cement pool, put a layer of vegetables and add a layer of salt, trample them firmly with feet, and press them with large stones. After 3 days, they can be taken out and sun-dried on the grass or the threshing ground. They are sun-dried in the morning and collected in the evening, and some salt needs to be added in the middle. When it is 70% dry and turns golden yellow, it can be eaten.
There are three types of preserved mustard greens: vegetable cores, vegetable slices, and thick leaves, with a sweet and crisp taste. Among them, the vegetable core is of the best quality with a tender core, yellow color, and fragrant taste. It can not only be used to make dishes but also has the effect of relieving summer heat and fever. Therefore, in the hot summer or during the season when vegetables are scarce, people especially like to use preserved mustard greens as a good choice for their diet.
The most famous way to cook preserved mustard greens is Braised Pork with Preserved Mustard Greens.
It may not be possible to clarify the specific origin of preserved mustard greens for a while. It is even more ridiculous for some people to use the legend of the fairy to explain the birth of preserved mustard greens. The specific origin of preserved mustard greens still needs to be verified. Preserved mustard greens has a history of more than 1,000 years. Preserved mustard greens and Braised Pork with Preserved Mustard Greens can try to apply for the World Historical and Cultural Heritage, so as to better enhance the international popularity of the Huizhou preserved mustard greens brand.
Source: Baidu Encyclopedia
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**Mei Cai (Sweet Mei Cai in Figure 1, Salted Mei Cai in Figure 2)**
**A Traditional Specialty of Guangdong (Meizhou and Huizhou)**
Mei Cai, a common Hakka delicacy, is a fermented preserved vegetable made from mustard greens. Its main production areas are Meizhou and Huizhou. Legend says it originated from seeds gifted by the "Fairy Mei," hence the name "Mei Cai" (Plum Vegetable). As a traditional preserved food of Guangdong, Mei Cai boasts a long history and is renowned both domestically and internationally. It is one of the "Three Great Famous Vegetables of Lingnan" and a vital part of Hakka culinary culture.
Also known as the "Prosperity Vegetable," Mei Cai, with over a thousand years of cultivation history, was once designated as a royal tribute during ancient dynasties and earned the title "Huizhou Tribute Vegetable." A classical poem describes it: "Ten miles of green in Zhuluo’s West Lake, but Huizhou’s Mei Cai stands as a singular flower." Huizhou was officially recognized as the "Hometown of Chinese Mei Cai" by the State Council. Mei Cai carries the cultural heritage of Huizhou’s Hakka community and has been awarded the "Geographical Indication" certification for agricultural products.
Mei Cai is versatile in cooking, serving as both a standalone dish and a flavorful ingredient. Locally, fresh mustard greens are sun-dried, sorted, and salted through multiple steps to create golden, aromatic, sweet, and crisp Mei Cai. It is neither overly cooling nor heating, making it suitable for all seasons. It aids digestion, clears heat, relieves stagnation, and helps lower cholesterol and blood pressure.
Mei Cai can be used in a variety of dishes, such as **Mei Cai Braised Pork Belly (Mei Cai Kou Rou)**, **Steamed Pork with Mei Cai**, **Steamed Beef with Mei Cai**, **Steamed Fish with Mei Cai**, **Braised Duck with Mei Cai**, **Steamed Pork Ribs with Mei Cai**, **Mei Cai Pork Soup**, and more.
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### **Historical Origins**
Mei Cai is a native specialty of Meizhou and Huizhou, with over 360 years of cultivation and production history. Legend claims it originated from seeds bestowed by the "Fairy Mei."
During the late Ming Dynasty, as chaos from peasant uprisings drove migrants southward, a scholar-official surnamed Lu settled in a fertile valley near present-day Meizhou. Struggling to feed his family, Lu’s wife encountered a celestial maiden named "Mei" while washing clothes by a river. The maiden gifted her mustard green seeds, instructing her to plant them. The resulting harvest was abundant, and when preserved, the greens became a savory staple. Named "Mei Cai" in honor of the fairy, the vegetable spread rapidly across the region.
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### **Cultural Significance**
Primarily cultivated in Huizhou by Hakka communities, Mei Cai is also called "Huizhou Tribute Vegetable." In Huizhou’s rural areas, particularly around the town of Aibi, Mei Cai farming spans over 60,000 acres, yielding more than 100,000 tons annually. The crop accounts for 45% of the town’s agricultural output, solidifying its status as a pillar industry. In 1995, Huizhou earned the title "Hometown of Chinese Mei Cai."
According to tests by South China Agricultural University, Mei Cai contains **5.7% sugar**, **5.6% protein**, multiple vitamins, **17 amino acids**, and essential minerals like zinc, magnesium, and potassium. Recognized by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a "natural health food," it promotes digestion, reduces cholesterol, and lowers blood pressure.
Historical records note that Mei Cai production began in the late Ming Dynasty (over 400 years ago). As a Lingnan specialty, it was sent as tribute to the imperial court and remains a fixture in Beijing restaurants as part of the iconic Cantonese dish **Mei Cai Kou Rou**.
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### **Production Process**
Mei Cai is typically grown in winter, sown a month before the late rice harvest. Planted in irrigated paddies, it requires daily watering initially and biweekly fertilization. After 80 days, when the core reaches 10–15 cm, the greens are harvested, sun-dried, salted, and pressed in layers for three days. Finally, they are dried to a golden hue and stored.
Mei Cai comes in three varieties: **tender core**, **leaf slices**, and **coarse leaves**, all crisp and subtly sweet. The tender core, prized for its fragrance and golden color, is ideal for cooking and summer heat relief.
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### **Cultural Legacy**
While legends surround its origin, Mei Cai’s exact historical roots remain debated. With over a millennium of history, advocates suggest applying for UNESCO cultural heritage status to elevate Huizhou Mei Cai’s global recognition.
**Source: Baidu Baike**
